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CR-V::Clinical Rounds Routine maintenance, problems, solutions and repair

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  #1  
Old 04-26-2005, 11:14 AM
jimbo6752 jimbo6752 is offline
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Default P0420 Engine code HELP!!!!!!!

Has anyone had to deal with this code.

2002 CRV
115,000 mile
Running great even with light on, Light seems to go on and off intermittantly. Dealer says it will cost $1700 to replace cat converter.

HELP!!!!!!!!!!
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  #2  
Old 04-26-2005, 11:55 AM
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Here's several pages of stuff to look thru at google.com: http://www.google.ca/search?hl=en&q=...e+Search&meta=

Did you search these forums? The question has surely been addressed before.


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  #3  
Old 04-26-2005, 12:42 PM
blackhawk064 blackhawk064 is offline
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Default po420

your cat. is only covered 8 yr /80,000 miles , 1,700 is very high
(ball park should be 900-1200),i m quoting dealer price,with 117k
it makes sence,are they also quoting you with the #2 o2 sensor????
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Old 04-26-2005, 01:00 PM
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OWIE!

The 2002 CR-V catalytic convertor is kind of odd shaped. It's number #2 in this picture. List price is about $1,400 (internet price under $1,200).

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Old 06-04-2005, 09:31 AM
jimbo6752 jimbo6752 is offline
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Anybody else have any input, or have seen this problem.
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Old 08-24-2005, 10:54 AM
pchiarizio pchiarizio is offline
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Default Cat replacement

I just did the search, this was the only message resulting from the search on this forum, and the google links are to a large extent not CRV specific, just code specific. Not all of us are idiots ;-)

Yeah, I'm going through it right now on my 1998 CRV EX (MT) with over 160K on it.

The light's been on for a couple years, maybe 50,000 miles or so. I was told it was the cat, price to repair, parts and labor, was over $1200, with the cat being almost $1000 of that. Screw that. Yes, I'm concerned about our breathing air, but I also know that the last emission test I had said I was well below, like 10 times, the standards. So even if the cat was 50% spent, it was still, say, 5 times below standards (they let diesels emit 5 pounds of buckyballs per gallon unregulated, but my CRV is poisoning the air, yeah right.)

So after a few years of no emission program (due to the corruption of the CT state government and incompetent consultants and contractors selected to redesign the old perfectly working system, but that's a whole 'nother long story) I was forced to go to emissions testing. The CRV failed of course, but they don't even measure actual emissions they just read the OBDII, which reads P0420, which I already knew. Yay, $20 down the drain, and that feeling that tells you more is about to.

Now I have 30 days to fix to get a free retest. Unlikely. If I get it repaired, then retested and it fails, I can get a waiver, if I've spent over $660. If it doesn't get fixed/retested in 30 days I pay for another test. If I don't pass a test or get a waiver, I can't renew registration, Yay. Oh, yeah, and the work must be done by a certified emissions repair station to qualify for the $660 and waiver. Grr. Did I happen to mention I'm broke, LOL? I just paid the heating oil contract for the winter. That hurt, and I'm sure the pain will only grow.

So it looks like I'll need to bite the bullet, not in the next 30 days, but before my car registration is up. And it looks like I need to do it the most expensive way possible - at a shop as opposed to DIY. Don't get me wrong, I can change my own oil, but I know my limitations. I bring the CRV to certified Honda mechanics when it needs it. But let's face it, and correct me if I'm wrong, the cat is like 5 rusty bolts off, back on and some new gaskets and it's done, no sweat, hopefully a simple DIY job except for the 7 year old heated, rusted nuts and bolts with no resemblance of a head or hex on them.

Besides, I can't see putting over $1200 in a 7-year old vehicle with 165K on it. That's like signing a death warrant, it'll croak within a week after the "investment". My plan of action is to find a used cat, that I know works correctly, and install it, and pass the emissions test to get this baloney over with.

Any tips in finding a good used cat would be helpful, or tips on dealing with the notorious exhaust bolts. Are aftermarket $200 cats an option or a joke? Will this solve the P0420 code, or this this trial and error at $1000 a step, i.e. next step relacing oxygen sensors or the entire exhaust because as soon as I try to get at the cat, it disintegrates....we'll see.

I'm not in any rush. Maybe it will get totaled between now and registration renewal time. Who knows. All I know is that it doesn't seem to do any damage to the engine, the gas mileage is still averaging 23mpg, and I'm not concerned with the level of emissions since I know what it used to emit and that this P0420 code is merely a threshold value, not an indicator of complete failure to my understanding.
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  #7  
Old 08-25-2005, 12:58 AM
jimbo6752 jimbo6752 is offline
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Mine is up to 130,000 miles still runs fine, light has been off for 2 weeks. What is odd about mine is that it seem to come on after a gas fillup.
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Old 08-25-2005, 03:25 AM
acura5150 acura5150 is offline
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Carsound.com has good aftermarket 'performance' Cats. I paid about $100 for mine (universal mount). Not sure the longevity, but it is much higher flow. The problem may be getting both your O2 sensors plugged in, they have many models though. See if they guarantee anything for emissions testing? $1200 for a cat is just robbery! Easier to rewire your OBDII! :twisted:
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Old 08-25-2005, 05:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimbo6752
Mine is up to 130,000 miles still runs fine, light has been off for 2 weeks. What is odd about mine is that it seem to come on after a gas fillup.
A few people have replaced their gas caps and it cured the problem. Smacking the nozzle against the lip of the filler hole can damage it's ability to seal. Sometimes it's an air leak in the filler tube seals, or from 'topping up' . You already know what the manufacturer says about the latter.
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  #10  
Old 08-25-2005, 12:41 PM
pchiarizio pchiarizio is offline
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Well, as fortune would have it, I got under the CRV, wiggled the O2 sensor wires, and voila! the check engine light is off for the first time in years! I'll try emissions tomorrow if the light is still off.

I had gas cap problems awhile ago also. Instead of turning until I hear 3 clicks, I turn the cap three times (lots of clicks) and it seems to take care of the seal issue.

Maybe an intermittent check engine light is a loose O2 sensor wire?

All I know is that the dealership would have soaked me for the cat, which would not have solved the problem, then soaked me for an O2 sensor or two. I figure I saved $2K by wiggling the wires and checking the connections under there.
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