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| CR-V::Clinical Rounds Routine maintenance, problems, solutions and repair |
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#1
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next brake job should fall at 180k-200kplus. I show in the video the rearrotor, how to take off the rotor, as the E- brake is located behind the rotor, I felt I had No obligation to go further then let lying dogs lay. You get the idea of how to bang forever on a impact screw, or drill out withing 30 secs a thumb head. It is ideal to replace these screws so no moving parts when working on the new ones. Thank you majestic Honda for messing my order up. I as well painted my calipar, and brake housing with a dupoint spray gunsmoke metal. i am happy with the color, and will not worry if I missed a spot. no more rusted housings. metal and color differ, go explain. Below are the pics, and below is a video of the rotor pulling off. I be happy t oshow you me painting the housing, butsome may need to use the restroom . When the job is donecorrectly. on all four rotors its quite normal when driving to hear a Hig pitch whine. for a split second, then all goes away. that's called squeaky clean. enjoy and thank you VIDEO LINK http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oIZulsM3Rlo ![]() ![]()
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Underdog: [whenever something goes wrong] I am a hero who never fails, I can't be bothered with such details. Last edited by roadster; 09-05-2009 at 12:48 PM. |
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#2
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wouldn't some grease between the wheel hub and the rotor make it easier for the rotor to come off next time so it doesn't seize onto the wheel? not nitpicking, just an honest question from a guy that's not a mechanic
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#3
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Quote:
1. the rear rotors were never taken off, they are my first removal of 120k plus. 2. the fronts were taken off number of times, aging of rotor, rust , swell, etc., etc. one came off without force, one needed a lil spray, the rear one was a little harder then the other. Could not prepare, but when off , yes One can use vasoline on the studs, and back plate, to help the next time round, and that will be 60k later fronts, rears a lot longer. One member here had trouble, and over, and over in the topicI repeately said what I shown here. and why i am helpful, when only a video shows true words.
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Underdog: [whenever something goes wrong] I am a hero who never fails, I can't be bothered with such details. |
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#4
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Quote:
Good video - my only suggestion is to use two bolts to pop the disc off rather than just one (and turn them evenly). What paint did you use on the calipers?
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2006 EX M5 - 67.5K miles -- Homelink, Curt Hitch, WT Cargo Liner, Mud Flaps, Yak Roof Rack, Glove Box switch - TSB04-064, wheelskins (Brn), Magellan 4040, 5-lug naked spare. 2007 Gl Blue EX - 70K miles - Mats, Cargo Tray, Remote Start, Magellan 4040, Yakima Roof Rack, wheelskins (Blk) |
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#5
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Duplicolor exterior paint . simple ext paint
nothing touched of the E-brakes, b/cthey are in working order, the parts, the adjustment etc. I said "Let lying dogs lay" and rather get into detailed info, its best to do just that. LOL
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Underdog: [whenever something goes wrong] I am a hero who never fails, I can't be bothered with such details. |
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#6
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so many people now complain about brakes this week lol
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Underdog: [whenever something goes wrong] I am a hero who never fails, I can't be bothered with such details. |
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#7
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That is a nice quality video. Those retaining screws are a bitch to get off. I used an impact driver and some Liquid Wrench. I replaced them using some anti-sieze compound. Here is some constructive criticism:
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2002 CR-V EX A/T Last edited by TheLoneRanger; 09-18-2009 at 05:35 PM. |
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#8
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thank you for the advice:
I do that attimes i say one thing and do something else lol thanks forthe correction. As the coloring I am sure it was rust, water etc and I at times do not show, what I do on the side to correct. TjheE-brake works quite alright, and not even worried about what I rarely use. thanks again.
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Underdog: [whenever something goes wrong] I am a hero who never fails, I can't be bothered with such details. |
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