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CR-V::Clinical Rounds Routine maintenance, problems, solutions and repair

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  #1  
Old 09-05-2009, 12:00 PM
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Default Front/rear brake/rotor video

Thank you for stopping in, and checking out the topic, on the brakes/rotors. All four have been correctly taken care of, and rather wait for a wintery day, 60k plus was the last brake job, and had 50% wear life left.

next brake job should fall at 180k-200kplus.

I show in the video the rearrotor, how to take off the rotor, as the E- brake is located behind the rotor, I felt I had No obligation to go further then let lying dogs lay.

You get the idea of how to bang forever on a impact screw, or drill out withing 30 secs a thumb head.

It is ideal to replace these screws so no moving parts when working on the new ones. Thank you majestic Honda for messing my order up.


I as well painted my calipar, and brake housing with a dupoint spray gunsmoke metal. i am happy with the color, and will not worry if I missed a spot. no more rusted housings. metal and color differ, go explain.


Below are the pics, and below is a video of the rotor pulling off. I be happy t oshow you me painting the housing, butsome may need to use the restroom .


When the job is donecorrectly. on all four rotors its quite normal when driving to hear a Hig pitch whine. for a split second, then all goes away. that's called squeaky clean.
enjoy and thank you

VIDEO LINK
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oIZulsM3Rlo








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Last edited by roadster; 09-05-2009 at 12:48 PM.
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Old 09-06-2009, 01:18 PM
aubgray aubgray is offline
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wouldn't some grease between the wheel hub and the rotor make it easier for the rotor to come off next time so it doesn't seize onto the wheel? not nitpicking, just an honest question from a guy that's not a mechanic
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Old 09-06-2009, 02:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aubgray View Post
wouldn't some grease between the wheel hub and the rotor make it easier for the rotor to come off next time so it doesn't seize onto the wheel? not nitpicking, just an honest question from a guy that's not a mechanic
A Excellent question.

1. the rear rotors were never taken off, they are my first removal of 120k plus.

2. the fronts were taken off number of times,

aging of rotor, rust , swell, etc., etc. one came off without force, one needed a lil spray, the rear one was a little harder then the other. Could not prepare, but when off , yes
One can use vasoline on the studs, and back plate, to help the next time round, and that will be 60k later fronts, rears a lot longer.

One member here had trouble, and over, and over in the topicI repeately said what I shown here. and why i am helpful, when only a video shows true words.
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  #4  
Old 09-07-2009, 01:09 PM
06whtcrv 06whtcrv is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roadster View Post
Thank you for stopping in, and checking out the topic, on the brakes/rotors. All four have been correctly taken care of, and rather wait for a wintery day, 60k plus was the last brake job, and had 50% wear life left.

next brake job should fall at 180k-200kplus.

I show in the video the rearrotor, how to take off the rotor, as the E- brake is located behind the rotor, I felt I had No obligation to go further then let lying dogs lay.

You get the idea of how to bang forever on a impact screw, or drill out withing 30 secs a thumb head.

It is ideal to replace these screws so no moving parts when working on the new ones. Thank you majestic Honda for messing my order up.


I as well painted my calipar, and brake housing with a dupoint spray gunsmoke metal. i am happy with the color, and will not worry if I missed a spot. no more rusted housings. metal and color differ, go explain.


Below are the pics, and below is a video of the rotor pulling off. I be happy t oshow you me painting the housing, butsome may need to use the restroom .


When the job is donecorrectly. on all four rotors its quite normal when driving to hear a Hig pitch whine. for a split second, then all goes away. that's called squeaky clean.
enjoy and thank you

VIDEO LINK
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oIZulsM3Rlo





rust build up on drum portion is pretty bad... looks like they were ready to be replaced! How did the springs look - they rust too and become the weak link in the brake system. Might be a cheap preventive maintenance to replace the springs only, to ensure one doesn't snap and jam up the works. I've had it happen before and it is not a pretty picture!
Good video - my only suggestion is to use two bolts to pop the disc off rather than just one (and turn them evenly).
What paint did you use on the calipers?
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Old 09-07-2009, 01:35 PM
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Duplicolor exterior paint . simple ext paint

nothing touched of the E-brakes, b/cthey are in working order, the parts, the adjustment etc. I said "Let lying dogs lay" and rather get into detailed info, its best to do just that. LOL
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Old 09-14-2009, 06:13 PM
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so many people now complain about brakes this week lol
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Old 09-18-2009, 12:30 PM
TheLoneRanger TheLoneRanger is offline
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That is a nice quality video. Those retaining screws are a bitch to get off. I used an impact driver and some Liquid Wrench. I replaced them using some anti-sieze compound. Here is some constructive criticism:
  • What you pointed out as the "rear brakes" is actually the parking brake assembly.
  • The parking brake assembly looked, somewhat, rust coated. I good lubing could have been in order here, especailly at high mileage.
  • The hub, rotor(if re-using the old rotor assembly), and wheel interface should be cleaned thoroughly, depending on the amount of corrosion(ie. sandpaper or emery cloth and a liquid solution). Otherwise, issues of lateral or radial run-out can arise.
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Last edited by TheLoneRanger; 09-18-2009 at 05:35 PM.
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Old 09-18-2009, 01:46 PM
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thank you for the advice:

I do that attimes i say one thing and do something else lol thanks forthe correction.

As the coloring I am sure it was rust, water etc and I at times do not show, what I do on the side to correct.

TjheE-brake works quite alright, and not even worried about what I rarely use. thanks again.
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