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CR-V::Clinical Rounds Routine maintenance, problems, solutions and repair

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  #31  
Old 05-29-2008, 06:27 AM
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Quote:
But your picture looks better since it's missing the PRND21 "stuff" between the fuel and temp gauges. Less dusty, too.
One has 131564 miles and the other has 32399 miles on it.. wow
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  #32  
Old 05-29-2008, 07:02 AM
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Yeah, I'm wearing it out.. By the end of the year, I'll bet it's up to 33,000 !!!
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  #33  
Old 05-29-2008, 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by XRing View Post
Yeah, I'm wearing it out.. By the end of the year, I'll bet it's up to 33,000 !!!

WOW

I have been driving a lot less too. I think I will be down to about 9k this year versus 15k last year that trend will probably only continue for me.
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  #34  
Old 05-29-2008, 03:05 PM
erniep erniep is offline
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Only done 13k in the last 5 months . . . from 27.5k in the year before that

Oh wait, ONLY
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  #35  
Old 05-29-2008, 04:42 PM
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I average about 24k miles a year.
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  #36  
Old 05-31-2008, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by XRing View Post
I've been thinking about Grill Blocking for faster warm-ups, since it's normally
pretty cool around here. And a warmed up engine gets better FE.

I've also been thinking that the aerodynamics of the gen1 nose needs fixing.

If that lower intake area could be made smooth, the cd would improve some.

Maybe a car bra with mesh screens (bug protection) over the intakes would work.
(Since a tight mesh screen reacts like a solid in high wind).

And maybe lowering that license plate down 6" or 8" (maybe bottom edge even with bottom of bumper) might help the drag a bit too.
you could try stuffing some pcs of those foam 'noodles' kids use while swimming - they look about the right diameter to fit the slots of the grill. then you could fill in as many as necessary to avoid overheating - or at least verify with your SG whether overheating is a problem.
I keep the TPS reading on my SG - as Ernie noted elsewhere, it's a direct correlation to the MPG.
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  #37  
Old 05-31-2008, 08:42 AM
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Arrow It's a drag

I've consulted elsewhere http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...-crv-2563.html
and found there is a general rule for air-intake size (vs radiator size).

"According to rocket-scientists,a diverging, air-tight inlet duct,one radiator-height long,
and one-quarter radiator-height tall,at it's opening,will provide all the air (needed) at the minimum drag."

So, after I get some temperatures & MPG data recorded, I'm going to experiment with taped over blocks,
everywhere (including the upper intake) but the bottom 1/2 of the center air input.

The only air-intake will be right below the license plate.

If that amount of intake is insufficient to keep the coolant down in the 180-190 degree
zone around town & on the highway, I would be surprised.
I just wish we would have some hot weather to get some proper test runs in.
I'm interesting in seeing if the AC will be affected.

If that amount of blockage works okay, then I'll try using some long term tape
(200 MPH duct tape?) for a year or two.
I would also make a removable coroplas block to cover the lower intake
@ 100% blockage for short trips around town in January.
----
I'll check out watching TPS. I'm finding that watching the instant MPG is a
very neat way to control fuel waste.. Quick and easy to understand.
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  #38  
Old 05-31-2008, 11:22 AM
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My guess would be airflow turbulence isn't going to affect anything at the speeds you drive around town. At highway crusing speeds, 55 MPH and above, they might help a little, but I don't think you're going to obtain any significant increase in fuel mileage.

JM2C
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  #39  
Old 05-31-2008, 11:51 AM
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That's what I figured too, but when you are riding your bicycle up a hill at 10 MPH
and you suddenly get hit in the face with a 15 MPH head wind, it sure feels like you are doing twice the work!

Anyways, from what I have read the kick-in speed for drag to effect your MPG is about 40 MPH. In my town,
we have a lot of places where the traffic is flowing at 35 to 45 (regardless of the posted speed limits).
There is one nice hill right near me that will allow a coast to get up to almost 50.

Anyways, I want to get some 'stock' numbers now, while there are no mods on the V (except for the skid-plate),
so if I install a rear-hatch spoiler, VGs or an Air Dam later on, I'll have something in the log to compare it to.

I don't really expect to see any measurable change in the cd by installing this grill blocking.
But, with the horrible drag it has now, you never know..


The most positive effect that I've heard of, is the engine warm up time is reduced considerably.
Even in the summer, having huge air intakes slows the engine warm-up time. While the engine is cold, it uses a lot more fuel.


So, if a warmed up engine runs better, how hot is too hot?
I don't know if running the engine a little hotter than normal has positive affect on the MPG,
but it's something I would like to find out about.
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  #40  
Old 05-31-2008, 05:18 PM
06whtcrv 06whtcrv is offline
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blocking the airflow is one of the tricks Prius owners use for hyper-miling in the winter - it allows the engine to heat up quicker and stay hot when it's running on the battery. The engine seems to be heating up on the CRV real quick now that warm weather is here. Not sure if you will see much improvement in that regard until cooler weather arrives!
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