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Pilot::Clinical Rounds Routine maintenance, problems, solutions and repair

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  #1  
Old 04-26-2008, 07:29 PM
mikejh mikejh is offline
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Default Transmission & Transfer Fluid Change 2006 Pilot

I am getting the code from the maintance minder to change the transmission and transfer fluid.

Is the transmission and transfer case a one piece unit on the Pilot?

Are there directions on this website (with pictures) on how to change the transmission and transfer fluid?

How much of the Honda ATF-Z1 fluid do you need? The dealer told me you only needed three quarts.
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  #2  
Old 04-26-2008, 08:37 PM
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See here:

tranny: http://hondapilot.org/forums/showthr...threadid=20413

VTM-4 (rear differential): http://hondapilot.org/forums/showthr...threadid=15667

Good luck with everything!
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  #3  
Old 05-04-2008, 10:27 AM
Patman Patman is offline
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Please note this is NOT the factory service manual approved method. If you feel you must follow every instruction to the letter then purchase the factory service manual. Also note that I choose not to use factory fluids but fluids that meet or exceed the factory specifications (with the exception the the VTM+4 fluid). You are free to use whatever fluid you choose as long as it meets the factory specs or are willing to live with the results of your choices.

Before:
-Obtain required amount fo prefered ATF that meets the specification (there are a few).
-aluminum crush washers (if so desired).

Tools required:
-3/8" ratchet (flex head preferred).
-1/2" breaker bar
-1/2" drive 12" extension
-17mm 1/2" drive 6pt socket
-drain pan
-shop light or flash light
-old school ATF funnel with metal "hose" and screen in top.
-Disposible shop towels
The above tool list can be modified after the fill and drain bolts have been broken loose from the factory install but you will want some serious leverage the first time.

The task:
-locate and break loose but don't remove the fill bolt. It is located on the top of the case near the firewall on the drivers side of LHD vehicles, it is a large flange bolt with ATF cast in the top of it.
-locate and break loose but don't remove the the drain bolt. It is on the bottom (duh) of the case and is different than the others in that it is smooth on the outside and has the 3/8" square drive center.
-Place pan under anticipated drain area and slowly remove the drain bolt. If you want to save some mess just use the bolt to throttle the flow of ATF from the case. It takes a bit long and will get ATF on your hand but is doesn't dump ATF in places you don't expect it to go.
-Once most of the fluid has drained remove the drain bolt and let it finish draining the remaining ATF as you inspect the magnetic drain bolt in all it black slurry coated glory. Take one of your shop towels and wife the black slurry from the somewhat magnetic drain bolt so that it is ready to install.
-When every last drip has dropped wipe the drain port and install the drain bolt, don't forget the aluminum washer (I reuse mind with no ill effects). Tighter the drain bolt snugly (if you are the 800 pound gorilla that does the factory install then tighten it gently).
-Remove fill bolt and aluminum crush washer.
-Place funnel on fill port and flowly add fresh ATF. (Note that if you mess with the placement of the funnel it will flow faster if the end is pointed towards the drives side front tire.)
-Check the ATF dipstick (might check the engine oil while you are at it) and add until it is in the full range.
-Install fill bolt and washer and snug in to place.
-Start vehicle and run through the gears while holding the brake. Let it sit in each gear a few seconds then do it again.
-Shut off vehicle and wait a minute of so and then carefully check the ATF dipstick to verify the level. If it's OK go for a spin and get the vehicle up to operating temp being sure it rund through all the gears.
-When you return from your test drive wait a few minute and then check the level again and adjust as necessary.

After:
-Dispose of your used and very likely dark red used ATF properly. Most quick lube, auto parts and deals accept it as well as some community recyclers.
-Enjoy a beverage of your choice.

IMHO:
I have changed the ATF on my wife's Honda vehicles more often than called for (every 15,000 miles) using Amsoil ATF for several years because it is cheap insurance compared to what I have seen the Honda Z-1 ATF look like after 30,000 miles of 90% highway use. Granted not having a filter may contribute to the nastiness of the fluid color somewhat as well but I prefer to see red fluid on the dipstick and when I drain it.
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Last edited by Patman; 05-04-2008 at 10:31 AM.
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  #4  
Old 08-09-2009, 02:00 PM
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blue_twisted_steel blue_twisted_steel is offline
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What about the drain/fill plugs in front of the driveshaft? They appear to have the same 3/8" plugs as in the rear. Does it require a drain/fill with VTM-4? These are not the drain/fill plugs for the auto trans.
Thanks.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg ft driveshaft.JPG (129.8 KB, 185 views)

Last edited by blue_twisted_steel; 08-09-2009 at 02:54 PM. Reason: add photo
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  #5  
Old 08-09-2009, 02:58 PM
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What about the drain/fill plugs in front of the driveshaft? They appear to have the same 3/8" plugs as in the rear. Does it require a drain/fill with VTM-4? These are not the drain/fill plugs for the auto trans.
Thanks.
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  #6  
Old 08-09-2009, 03:40 PM
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chiph chiph is offline
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I don't have the service manual for the Pilot, but based on the Ridgeline, which uses a similar drivetrain, the transfer case is separate from the transmission and the rear differential.

Verify this with your owner's manual, or ask at your dealer, (in other words, don't take my advice without double-checking it) but the Ridgeline says to use Hypoid gear oil GL4 or GL5, which is a SAE90 or SAE80W-90 viscosity gear oil. (SAE90 above 0 degrees F, SAE80W-90 below 0F). Quantity is 0.43 liters. Because of the tight location, a large syringe would be useful in filling the transfer case.

Fill is the bolt on the right of your picture, drain is on the left (i.e. bottom of the transfer assembly case).

Loosen the fill bolt first, then the drain bolt. Capture the oil for recycling. Reinstall the drain bolt (use a new crush washer), then add gear oil until it reaches the bottom of the fill hole (make sure your Pilot is level first, and not still on ramps or jackstands). Then replace the fill bolt, using a new crush washer. Torque for both bolts is 33 lb-ft.

Chip H.
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  #7  
Old 08-10-2009, 10:56 AM
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blue_twisted_steel blue_twisted_steel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiph View Post
I don't have the service manual for the Pilot, but based on the Ridgeline, which uses a similar drivetrain, the transfer case is separate from the transmission and the rear differential.

Verify this with your owner's manual, or ask at your dealer, (in other words, don't take my advice without double-checking it) but the Ridgeline says to use Hypoid gear oil GL4 or GL5, which is a SAE90 or SAE80W-90 viscosity gear oil. (SAE90 above 0 degrees F, SAE80W-90 below 0F). Quantity is 0.43 liters. Because of the tight location, a large syringe would be useful in filling the transfer case.

Fill is the bolt on the right of your picture, drain is on the left (i.e. bottom of the transfer assembly case).

Loosen the fill bolt first, then the drain bolt. Capture the oil for recycling. Reinstall the drain bolt (use a new crush washer), then add gear oil until it reaches the bottom of the fill hole (make sure your Pilot is level first, and not still on ramps or jackstands). Then replace the fill bolt, using a new crush washer. Torque for both bolts is 33 lb-ft.

Chip H.

Thanks chiph. I called Honda customer service. The '06 Pilot transfer case requires 0.45qt of hypoid gear oil SAE90, same as your Ridgeline. It is barely mentioned in my manual. Only place it is called out - it should be changed when you see sub-item 3 of the service minder.
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  #8  
Old 02-12-2010, 02:55 PM
jgcmi jgcmi is offline
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Default Rear Differential Fluid Change - 2003 Pilot

This is my first post, so sorry if repetitive. Can someone send me instructions for replacing the rear differential fluid in my 2003 Pilot? I saw earlier responses with a link to Honda.org, but the link does not seem to be working.
Thanks
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  #9  
Old 02-12-2010, 03:11 PM
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Here's the new link: http://piloteers.org/forums/showthre...threadid=15667

Honda corporate was giving the site owners a hard time about having Honda in the web address so they had to change it.
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Old 02-12-2010, 03:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgcmi View Post
This is my first post, so sorry if repetitive. Can someone send me instructions for replacing the rear differential fluid in my 2003 Pilot? I saw earlier responses with a link to Honda.org, but the link does not seem to be working.
Thanks
It looks like the hondapilot.org may have changed their name to piloteers.org...in any case, try this link:

http://www.piloteers.org/forums/show...threadid=15667

It's a DIY for changing the rear diff fluid (VTM-4) fluid in a Pilot.

You do know that you can only use the Honda VTM-4 fluid, right?

Good Luck!
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