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CR-V::Clinical Rounds Routine maintenance, problems, solutions and repair

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  #1  
Old 06-02-2004, 12:35 PM
nonn nonn is offline
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Default Valve Adjustment

How easy is it to DIY a valve adjustment? What are the tools needed? I don't want to spend $$ if I can do it myself :wink: . I have a 2000 CR-V EX Auto.

Thanks for any advice.
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  #2  
Old 06-02-2004, 03:13 PM
ShootingStar ShootingStar is offline
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It's pretty easy and a great DIY project since the engine really needs to be cool before it's done. If you take it to a dealer or a mechanic, make sure that the car sits for about 3 or 4 hours before they work on it. The most important tool is the Helm Shop Manual. Past that you'll need a feeler gauge, 10 & 12 mm wrenches and sockets, a spark plug socket, a 19mm socket for the crank bolt, and a straight slot screwdriver. First time out it'll probably take you a couple of hours, and the next time maybe half that. One tip... the specs call for .003-.005" on the intakes and .006-.008" on the exhaust valves. Since they tend to tighten not loosen over time, I'd suggest leaning toward the high side of those gaps.

Mark
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Old 06-02-2004, 04:04 PM
bobot bobot is offline
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for the G2, what sorta mileage before I work on these babies? he also need to seal the head again right?
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Old 06-02-2004, 04:40 PM
ShootingStar ShootingStar is offline
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Nonn, If you'll PM me with your e-mail address, I'll send you the 2 valve adjustment pages from the shop manual in PDF (Adobe Acrobat) format.
Bobot, Sorry, I don't have any info on the Gen2's valves. Different animal.

Mark
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Old 06-02-2004, 05:32 PM
Einstein Einstein is offline
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You need a helm manual www.helminc.com before you start doing this kind of stuff. Once you buy it you will get your money back quickly.

I need the following when I adjust my valves every 30,000 miles, including spark plugs:

*3/8" metric ratchet set including 10, 12, 14, and 19 mm (valve cover nuts, valve adjuster nuts, power steering hose clamp bolt, crankshaft pulley bolt)
*A 6" ratchet extension for 3/8" (for turning crank from driver's wheel well)
*A low-range 3/8" torque wrench (up to 25 N*m minimum)
*5/8" spark plug socket for 3/8" drive
*Dielectric Grease (for spark plug wires on spark plugs, and for the breather hose when you put it on so it's easy to take back off next time)
*Anti-Seize compound (for spark plug threads, just a little)
*A medium flat-blade screwdriver (for turning adjusters)
*A non-silicone gasket sealant (Hondabond HT or equivalent for gasket corners)
*Straight feeler gages .004, .005, .007, .008. (intake go, no-go, exhaust go, no-go)
*Pliers (to remove breather hose clamps)
*Shop Towels
*Non-Chlorinate Brake Cleaner (to clean valve cover seal seating surface)

(I've never needed replacement valve cover seals or spark plug gaskets, some people will say you need them)

I would venture to say if you can change oil without any problems, and you are good at following instructions, you can probably do the valve adjustment in about 3 hours using the helm manual.
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  #6  
Old 06-02-2004, 09:49 PM
mau108 mau108 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShootingStar
Nonn, If you'll PM me with your e-mail address, I'll send you the 2 valve adjustment pages from the shop manual in PDF (Adobe Acrobat) format.
Bobot, Sorry, I don't have any info on the Gen2's valves. Different animal.

Mark
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  #7  
Old 06-03-2004, 05:08 AM
ShootingStar ShootingStar is offline
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mau108, You've got mail...
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  #8  
Old 06-09-2004, 12:38 PM
nonn nonn is offline
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Default Thank you...

for all the advice. I shall proceed with the work soon... :wink:
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  #9  
Old 06-09-2004, 12:48 PM
Gopal Gopal is offline
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Few suggestions:

1. Have WD-40 at hand. Useful.
2. Important to have proper torque-wrench, and use it.
3. Turn the front wheel to left and look behind it. There are 2 nuts on which the 19mm will fit. The correct one is the one on right, hidden behind the plastic (or hard rubber) veil. 6 inch extension on the wrench is very useful.
4. Oil the gasket before you put it back in.
5. Wear gloves, it will protect your knuckles.

Regards,
Gopal
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  #10  
Old 06-09-2004, 01:22 PM
Einstein Einstein is offline
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Years ago I was been told by the lead technician at my Honda dealer NOT to oil the gasket.

Instead, clean it with mild diswashing detergent and allow to dry well. Spray some non-clorinated brake cleaner on a clean shop towel and go around the mating surfaces to remove debris and oil.

Then before putting the gasket back on, push it into the valve cover and apply liquid gasket (Hondabond HT) to the places where the gasket takes a 90 turn (around the camshafts.) Install the valve cover within a few minutes of applying the Hondabond because it begins to cure in the air. Then don't drive the car for a half hour.

I believe with oil on the gasket, the liquid gasket would not stick. I wouldn't know, I've never had a leak in 15 years using the "dry method" and reusing the gasket.
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