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Issues and complaints! What's wrong with my CR-V? So, this is brand new model year and issues are bound to be present. Post what you are experiencing here and how the dealer resolved them!

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  #1  
Old 11-06-2007, 09:01 PM
ELP_JC ELP_JC is offline
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Default Checking transmission fluid level.

Hey gang, as you're probably aware, Honda's system to check tranny fluid level sucks. You're supposed to do it fully hot, and right after shutting the engine off.
Well, besides risking some burns, if you rush to the hood right after shutting engine off, you get a very different reading than doing it more sedately. Why can't Honda put a freaking 'cold' mark like everybody else?? That's the reason of this post.

To have a consistent and easy way to measure oil in my Honda trannies, I like to find the proper level when cold. Problem is I don't know if my tranny was properly filled from the factory or not, so I want to get an 'average' of several of you, willing forum members, to make sure. My V has the level just above the full mark when fully depressed (you have to press hard, and feel the metal guide sticking out of the rubber), engine stone cold, and on flat cement (my garage). Please use your garage as well, and report your level so we are all sure where it should be. I'm getting close to 10K miles, at which point I always do a drain/refill to avoid a full flush at 30K. Changing oil every 10K keeps it relatively fresh, and no need for a flush, which is not good IMO. Thanks for your help.
JC
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Old 11-07-2007, 05:41 AM
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badgerland badgerland is offline
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I did my tranny fill a few weeks ago and found that I needed to add 3.5 quarts of the good stuff to get the level of the fluid to the line. Now that I know how much to add (manual says 2.6 quarts) it should be easier next time. Use a good torque wrench on that bolt...man was that thing on tight from the factory!
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Old 11-08-2007, 05:10 PM
ELP_JC ELP_JC is offline
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Thanks for the heads up man. Did you, by any chance, measure where the level was with the engine COLD? And where is it now after the drain/refill? Remember to push the dipstick all the way in; needs a little motivation.

And yes, factory tightens the crap out of drain plugs, for some reason. No need for that. I've never used a torque wrench for that; one of the few things I don't use it for. Take care.
JC
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Old 11-08-2007, 08:09 PM
mdugan7000 mdugan7000 is offline
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Hint:
Your dealer's techs wouldn't use a torque wrench either....
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Old 11-09-2007, 06:22 AM
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badgerland badgerland is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdugan7000 View Post
Hint:
Your dealer's techs wouldn't use a torque wrench either....
But I guess those robots "building" the CRV don't have much of a "mechanics" feel when tightening or otherwise it would be to the correct spec...
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Old 11-10-2007, 05:28 PM
ELP_JC ELP_JC is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badgerland View Post
But I guess those robots "building" the CRV don't have much of a "mechanics" feel when tightening or otherwise it would be to the correct spec...
Problem with drain plugs is torque specified is invariably too tight, not the torque wrench itself. I know several people that have stripped their threads by using spec torque values. That's why I don't use a torque wrench, and never a problem.
Another too tight spec IMO is for the oil filter; I thighten those by hand, and never a problem either. Later.
JC
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Old 11-11-2007, 06:36 AM
mdugan7000 mdugan7000 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badgerland View Post
But I guess those robots "building" the CRV don't have much of a "mechanics" feel when tightening or otherwise it would be to the correct spec...
Ever tried to be the first one to undue the rear diff drain and fill plugs? Way over-tightened at the factory. The factory has employed the old Samsonite luggage commercial gorillas to install these plugs.
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Old 11-11-2007, 06:55 AM
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Ever tried to be the first one to undue the rear diff drain and fill plugs? Way over-tightened at the factory. The factory has employed the old Samsonite luggage commercial gorillas to install these plugs.
This is exactly what I was eluding to; I thought the tranny bolt was tight! Thank goodness (I hope) that the rear diff has already been drained and filled by the dealer. I'm going to assume that same gorilla doesn't currently work there...
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Old 11-12-2007, 01:49 PM
ELP_JC ELP_JC is offline
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Hey, just wanted to comment it's always better to 'shock' the drain bolts by hitting the ratchet with a heavy glove on an aluminum engine. Same with motorcycles. Progressively applying force makes it that much easier to strip. Hope this helps.
JC
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