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CR-V::Clinical Rounds Routine maintenance, problems, solutions and repair

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  #1  
Old 07-15-2006, 03:38 PM
Chris_98_LX Chris_98_LX is offline
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Default inner tie rod ends problem/question

Has anybody ever had to replace the inner tie rod ends? Or even heard about them going bad. I have never heard of them going bad like this.

Chris
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  #2  
Old 07-15-2006, 04:57 PM
andy7079 andy7079 is offline
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The problem with tie rod ends is that the allignment will be messed up when you are done. They do eventually go. My neighbor had them go on his old caprice at a gas station and his wheels were stuck facing each other.

I suppose rust and corrosion can eventually eat away at the end and loosen it. A loose tie rod end could then lead to play in the steering.
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  #3  
Old 07-15-2006, 08:31 PM
mdugan7000 mdugan7000 is offline
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Default Re: inner tie rod ends problem/question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris_98_LX
Has anybody ever had to replace the inner tie rod ends? Or even heard about them going bad. I have never heard of them going bad like this.

Chris
What does "...going bad like this" mean? Tie rod ends are an expected wear item.
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Old 07-16-2006, 04:44 PM
Chris_98_LX Chris_98_LX is offline
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I figured they would eventually wear out no part will ever last forever. But this is the first time I have ever had to replace one under 70K miles. Just in case yall were wondering the inner tie rod ends are a pain.

Chris
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Old 07-16-2006, 05:50 PM
mdugan7000 mdugan7000 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris_98_LX
I figured they would eventually wear out no part will ever last forever. But this is the first time I have ever had to replace one under 70K miles. Just in case yall were wondering the inner tie rod ends are a pain.

Chris
70,000 does seem kinda low mileage. Do you drive on many unpaved, gravel, dirt roads, etc.?
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  #6  
Old 07-17-2006, 01:44 PM
ukrkoz ukrkoz is offline
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Default did replace them

sorry, not on 98 lx, though. so far, experience was very favorable - you just screw them out. well, of course, you remove the outer one 1st. also, you count turns while removing it. make a note of your point of reference, obvious one is rod that goes into the steering knuckle, and start counting. reason being - when you replace inner one, you have to have outer one on at least close to initial position. re-alignment is inavitable.
then you remove the boot, ruining oem clamps is necessary evil. you can fork for crimping tool to use similar clamps, or i just used regular hose clamps with no bad aftereffects, much easier to apply.
after all that was removed, tierod just screwed out. if any trouble with that - any major parts store has tierod end removing tool for rent. autozone rents for free.
i want to see when 2nd gen tierod will go bad. it is a THICK piece of steel.
well, potholes while cornering at high speed will kill anything. or handshakes with curb... or wheelshakes, to be precise
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  #7  
Old 07-17-2006, 04:12 PM
Chris_98_LX Chris_98_LX is offline
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I live in the country but I dont do alot of driving on dirt or gravel, at least I try not to. The hardest part for me was just clearance issues between the lower control arm and other suspension parts int he local area.

Chris
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Old 07-10-2010, 06:50 PM
97crvfan 97crvfan is offline
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I recently replaced a worn right outer tie rod end on a 97 CRV but there's still play and it's in the inner tie rod. Looking at the Honda CRV service manual, they say replacing the inner tie rod required removing the entire steering rack, a big job. The steps are (paraphrased!): 1) raise car on safety stands; 2) remove front wheels; 3) remove driver's airbag and steering wheel; 4) remove steering joint; 5) remove both outer tie rods and slide rack to right; 6) remove catalytic converter; 7) disconnect AT shift cable from AT; mark and separate front propshaft from transfer ass'y; 9) disconnect and plug supply and return hoses from rack; 10) remove right and left lower mounts; 11) remove rear mount & bracket; 12) jack the front of the engine to tilt engine back to lower transfer ass'y flange about 1.5 inches; 13) remove stiffener plate; 14) remove power steering rack mounting brackets; 15) slide rack farther to the right and then tilt left side of rack down and slide whole rack out through the opening. Simple as that!

Tallying up the price of all the replacement parts, it's about $200 for all the Honda OEM nuts, bolts, gaskets (for cat converter), inner tie rods, and PS bellows boot bands.

I haven't found any easy way to do this job. Anyone have any experience doing this job?

Last edited by 97crvfan; 07-10-2010 at 06:53 PM. Reason: added CRV year, formatting
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  #9  
Old 07-10-2010, 07:42 PM
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'Curly Q Links' 'Curly Q Links' is offline
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I did the right one on my wife's 00 and all I needed was a used inner joint, a new lock clip and a replacement for the large bellows boot band. It was a few years ago and I think I used a bit of LokTite too.

Did it on the gravel driveway and unbolted, but didn't remove the rack.

EDIT: Are you absolutely sure you don't just need the rack adjustment? What's your mileage?


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Last edited by 'Curly Q Links'; 07-10-2010 at 07:44 PM. Reason: added EDIT
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  #10  
Old 07-17-2010, 12:03 PM
97crvfan 97crvfan is offline
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Default Inner Tie Rod: 97 CRV with 128K miles

It's definitely the inner tie rod end. With everything else held still, I can see the movement in the bellows. The other end of the rack is perfectly still.
I checked the play in the steering wheel per the service manual and it is within spec.
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