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CR-V::Clinical Rounds Routine maintenance, problems, solutions and repair

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  #1  
Old 04-23-2010, 04:23 AM
T-RO T-RO is offline
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Default 1998 CRV shutting off while driving.

Edit: Problem was fixed by replacing the Ignitor. Feel free to read what I went through though.

98 crv with 140k miles on her. While driving it will occasionally sputter sputter and shut down. Still have power across the dashboard. Pull over, give it a minute and it will usually start back up. Its happened like 5 times in the past 2 weeks.

I called Honda and the ignition switch recall from 2002 was done on my car.

I replaced the fuel filter with a new one.

I pulled apart the distributor and tested the ignition coil and it was good.

Today after work i plan to test the ignition switch just in case the one thats on there is going bad or something. Also plan to check the fuel pump.

Is there any other direction I should go with troubleshooting? The guy at Autozone suggested the Crank sensor. He said its getting hot and shutting the car off.

Last edited by T-RO; 05-16-2010 at 07:17 AM.
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Old 04-23-2010, 04:54 AM
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More likely the igniter is getting hot. I don't see any mention of heat sink paste in the Helms manual, but I understand new ones come with a tube in the box.

There's lots of diagnostics for the coil / igniter in the archives, so just SEARCH it. May also be spelled 'ignitor'.

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Old 04-23-2010, 04:57 AM
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Our last Dodge mini van had this problem. Driving down the road while on a trip and all of a sudden it would shut off. It was the fuel pump that was located inside of the gas tank. As told to me, it had eight lobes like a stop sign and one lobe would miss the connection from time to time.

Let us know what the problem ends up to be.
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Old 04-23-2010, 11:00 AM
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How many keys do you keep on the key chain? Is there a lot of weight on it?
Mechanics at our shop have seen numerous bad ignition switches due to heavy key chains (lots of keys, trinkets, flashlights, etc.)
What happens is that extra weight acts as a pendulum, and the continuous up/down movements wear out the contacts inside the switch.
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Old 04-23-2010, 01:51 PM
T-RO T-RO is offline
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Wife has a few keys and a door fob on the keychain, definately not a janitor keychain.

I stopped by the local Honda shop and the person I spoke to said he thinks it may be the main relay. He said when they start going bad and it gets hot the motherboard flexes and they lose connections. When it cools down it flexes back into place and the connection is reestablished. He said you can open it up and resolder the connections or buy a new one but there was no real way to test a unit to see if its bad.

This is my project for the weekend so ill be back.
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Old 04-23-2010, 03:29 PM
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Here's a good page about repairing Honda/Acura main relays.

It covers symptoms of a bad main relay, what to look for on the circuit board (a dry joint) and how to resolder the connections.



Quote:
Introduction: The Honda or Acura turns over but won't start in hot weather is a symptom of a main relay going bad. This is the result of the poor solder application from the factory. As a consequence, raise areas on the joint indicate a "dry joint" which can lead to an open circuit. The dry, open circuit is the main cause of no start. This is partly caused by the buildup of heat on the terminals which expand, contract and subject to vibrations. It is likely that a layer of hard oxide has built up inside the solder joint. The layer of hard oxide has to be removed by desoldering. Other than this, there are no known mechanical problem with the main relay.
Let us know how it goes, and take some pics while you're in there.

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Old 04-23-2010, 05:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T-RO View Post

I stopped by the local Honda shop and the person I spoke to said he thinks it may be the main relay. He said when they start going bad and it gets hot the motherboard flexes and they lose connections. When it cools down it flexes back into place and the connection is reestablished. He said you can open it up and resolder the connections or buy a new one but there was no real way to test a unit to see if its bad.
Sorry, the symptoms don't match a Main Relay failure, which (until now?) never happens on CR-V. The most important symptom is the vibration component. On an older Civic, a bad main relay will work fine when the car is cold (inside) then it will not work if you go to restart the engine (ie: after gassing up at 7-Eleven). Smack the dash with the key in position II and you hear the fuel pump run.

Yours is failing when the car is MOVING. Main relay only gives trouble if you shut the engine off. Even when a Civic main relay is getting hotter / poorer connection, the vibration of the engine and road keep the relay working until AFTER you shut it off.

You can resolder it if you want to, but it's doubtful since your symptoms don't come close to the 'original' Honda main relay problem.

You can read about it here too:

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/start...html#mainrelay

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Old 04-24-2010, 09:33 AM
T-RO T-RO is offline
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I did some searching and found a bunch about having valves adjusted and I admit, I havent done it in the 60k we've owned the car (who knows if it was done before). Would that have caused the original problems we were having?

Last edited by T-RO; 04-24-2010 at 12:27 PM.
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Old 04-24-2010, 09:14 PM
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I just went through this hell. Mine turned out to be a bad ignitor switch in the distibutor. $50 at Auto Zone. That was after I replaced the plugs and then adjusted the valves.
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Old 04-25-2010, 10:33 AM
T-RO T-RO is offline
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OK i pulled the ignition switch out and took it apart. I took some pics and compared them to what I found on this page: http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignit...l#Troubleshoot

I think it may be a worn switch. What do you guys think?
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