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Thread: Door Lock Troubleshooting

  1. #1
    Member HondaSUV junior in training
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    Talking Door Lock Troubleshooting

    Hello,

    I have read the sticky on gen 1 lock actuator replacement and a few other threads, but want to make sure I have the problem isolated before I start replacing parts.

    I have a 1999 CR-V and am having a door look issue. If I use the remote key fob, the locks make the unlocking sound, but don't unlock (they move a little bit). Using the unlock switch on the door, the rear doors will unlock, but not the front doors.

    Where should I start troubleshooting? Is there a reason the remote key fob won't unlock the rear doors, but the door unlock switch does? (I do hit the key fob button multiple times, as I believe it is once for front doors and twice for rear doors). Once in a while, usually in the morning, the rear doors will open with the key fob. Cold weather thing?

    Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Brad
    -------------------------------
    '99 CR-V

  2. #2
    Senior Member HondaSUV Mentor
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    sounds like you should start by checking the wiring between the door and the body - the wires in the rubber boot tend to flex and break over time -
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  3. #3
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    I had the same problem which progressively got worse till the driver's lock would not respond. I ended up replacing the actuator. Now it works as new.

    Replacing actuator is a DIY, but a tough one. Purchase spares ahead of time.
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  4. #4
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    Thanks for all the replies so far!

    Do I need to replace the actuator for every lock that does not work with the power lock button on the driver's side door? (i.e. - the front driver and passenger door locks do not go all the way up or down with either the key fob or the door lock button on the door).

    I was confused whether I should replace the driver's side door first (wasn't sure if this was the "main control center" for the locks), or if each door had it's own lock actuator.

    Where is the cheapest place to buy these actuators?

    Brad
    -------------------------------
    '99 CR-V

  5. #5
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    The controller is in the driver's door, but each door has it's own lock actuator.

    Check the wires going from the driver's door into the body first before replacing anything.

    The Racoon

    White Diamond Pearl 2014 CR-V EX AWD (Gen 4)

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    Milano Pink 1999 CR-V EX 5 Speed (Gen 1.5) - SOLD at 127,997 miles
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  6. #6
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    Befioreyou go ahead and listen to our suggestions:
    Please Be advised we are not repairman especially today our Moderators. Even myself. just be advised again the repair manual is your key

    1 no one has mentioned if allowed for the V Placing the Key in the driverside door, and turning it, that would unlock the driver only, and turning again all the doors?

    2, same goes for the rear hatch, unless I am referring to the Gen II

    That said : trouble shoot starts at both ends. the Key fob t othe actuator and actuator to the keyfob/ Ohms meter and voltage I check first simple as removing your door jam.
    Underdog: [whenever something goes wrong] I am a hero who never fails, I can't be bothered with such details.
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by roadster View Post
    1 no one has mentioned if allowed for the V Placing the Key in the driverside door, and turning it, that would unlock the driver only, and turning again all the doors?
    The key fob does not open any of the door locks, but I do hear a mechanical noise from the car as though it is "trying" to open the door locks.

    Turning the key twice in the door, does not open any other doors.

    Using the door unlock button on the driver door, I can unlock both rear doors, but not the front two doors.

    If I press down on the door lock knob on the driver door, both rear doors will lock, but the front passenger side will not (it used to a few months ago).

    Still need to dig into the issue...
    -------------------------------
    '99 CR-V

  8. #8
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    Its your actuators (midcoast). Don't need to dig in, just order parts (both fronts) and replace
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  9. #9
    FFNC Site AdminHondaSUV Elder Racoon's Avatar
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    I would also check the wiring where it it connects between the driver's door and the vehicle, as some of those wires control the other door locks.

    And noahrexion is also correct, that it might be the lock actuators.

    But start by checking the wires, since that won't cost you any money (to start).

    The Racoon

    White Diamond Pearl 2014 CR-V EX AWD (Gen 4)

    Accessories: splash guards, body side molding, moonroof visor, Weathertech Window Deflectors, Weathertech floor mats, Weathertech cargo tray

    Milano Pink 1999 CR-V EX 5 Speed (Gen 1.5) - SOLD at 127,997 miles
    Silver Moss Metallic 2006 CR-V EX 5 Speed (Gen 2.5) - SOLD at 86,647 miles

  10. #10
    Video Master HondaSUV Elder roadster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by midcoastsurf View Post
    The key fob does not open any of the door locks, but I do hear a mechanical noise from the car as though it is "trying" to open the door locks.

    Turning the key twice in the door, does not open any other doors.

    Using the door unlock button on the driver door, I can unlock both rear doors, but not the front two doors.

    If I press down on the door lock knob on the driver door, both rear doors will lock, but the front passenger side will not (it used to a few months ago).

    Still need to dig into the issue...
    It will be a project.

    1. I check to see if dust built up around the locks tabs, spraying a little wd-40 cannot hurt. I say that b/c this stopped mine many years ago, when I cleaned up this section all worked fine, it is worth a shot, but I am sure not every details everything, Lol. I missed it, so can you?

    2.As said wiring harness from keyless to door, the actual switch works the rear, but not the front, that says two wires, the driver and pass may be pinched, "check the pass lock tab, that will lock all doors but not open all doors"

    3. if the wiring harness is all intact, then it will be opening the door jams, finding the actuator wire switch, and shooting 12vdc to the motor, b/c that is all is in there a motor that spins a gear or two, you will have to determine if the actuator is good or bad, and this will be repeated for the driver door, if no visible breaks were seen. some times wires can break inside the sleeve and not be seen but felt?

    things do break for reasons, and they break out of no where, the motor works each time you open and close the circuit unlocking and locking the door, day in day out, I bet it has over a million times use, do you think it seen its day? My starter has, Lol

    Our advise and our experience is FREE, We been there and done that.. take notes, take your time, and "DO NOT" shut the door "DO NOT" unless you know its 10000000% working.

    Keep us posted, some of us are still around. even if I do not own my CR-V anymore!
    Underdog: [whenever something goes wrong] I am a hero who never fails, I can't be bothered with such details.
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