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Thread: Vibration during acceleration?

  1. #1
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    Default Vibration during acceleration?

    I have a vibration during acceleration on our 1997 automatic AWD that I'm going to look into today. It is on accelleration only and tends to get worse the faster the car is accelerating and at higher speeds. The problem is constant during acceleration but tends to stop when cruising at a steady speed even on the highway. It is slightly intermittent - sometimes it is there and sometimes I can hardly feel it. The vibration seems to be in both the steering wheel and the front of the car, as opposed to some types of vibration that can be felt mostly in the steering wheel.

    Any thoughts/predictions on what this might be? I've changed the diff fluid so it's not that. None of the boots on the front end are torn or leaking. Both front halfshafts were replaced within the last 30k.
    Last edited by dammitjim; 12-01-2010 at 01:40 PM.

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    FFNC Site AdminHondaSUV Elder Racoon's Avatar
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    Have you rotated your tires recently?

    And have you checked the propeller shaft to see if the u-joints are binding?

    The Racoon

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    Quote Originally Posted by Racoon View Post
    Have you rotated your tires recently?

    And have you checked the propeller shaft to see if the u-joints are binding?

    I did rotate the tires a few weeks ago and there was no change to the problem. If it's wheel balance the wheels are more or less equally out of balance. I may get the wheels balanced just to rule that out.

    I've got the front wheels off now and everything looks good except for possibly a small amount of play on the inner tie rods. If it's there it's not much.

    Next up is the driveshaft. Are there any useful checks to do with it on the car? I've read the sticky and it sounds like it will have to come off. I need to pick up some Torx sockets before I can remove it.

    Other thoughts? Strut bearings/bushings? Motor mounts?
    Last edited by dammitjim; 06-20-2010 at 10:25 AM.

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    Maybe I'll put my S2000 winter wheels on it as a test. I know those are balanced properly...

    Those have wider tires in the rear but the overall diameter is the same on all 4 tires. That wouldn't cause a problem with the AWD on the CRV would it? It would be just for a couple miles to confirm if balance is an issue with the CRV wheels.
    Last edited by dammitjim; 06-20-2010 at 10:21 AM.

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    FFNC Site AdminHondaSUV Elder Racoon's Avatar
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    As long as the circumference is the same on all four tires it won't cause a problem with the RT4WD system.

    No, you can't check the u-joints without disconnecting the ends of the propeller shaft.

    The Racoon

    White Diamond Pearl 2014 CR-V EX AWD (Gen 4)

    Accessories: splash guards, body side molding, moonroof visor, Weathertech Window Deflectors, Weathertech floor mats, Weathertech cargo tray

    Milano Pink 1999 CR-V EX 5 Speed (Gen 1.5) - SOLD at 127,997 miles
    Silver Moss Metallic 2006 CR-V EX 5 Speed (Gen 2.5) - SOLD at 86,647 miles

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    Senior Member HondaSUV Elder 'Curly Q Links''s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dammitjim View Post
    I've read the sticky and it sounds like it will have to come off. I need to pick up some Torx sockets before I can remove it.
    It's a 10 mm, 12 point 3/8ths drive socket that you need..... Unbolt the REAR U-joint flange first.

    Last edited by 'Curly Q Links'; 06-20-2010 at 05:42 PM. Reason: forgot to say 10 mm
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    Quote Originally Posted by 'Curly Q Links' View Post
    It's a 12 point 3/8ths drive socket that you need..... Unbolt the REAR one first.

    Got it, thanks.

    BTW, rear wheels from an 00-03 S2000 are too wide to fit either end of a 1st gen CRV without spacers.

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    Well, a wheel balance solved most of the issue and the majority of the vibration is now gone. The small amount that is left I'm not going to worry about on a 187k mile car. I'll still pull the DS at some point to verify the u-joints aren't an issue, but it's no longer a pressing issue.

    Thanks for all the input.

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    Senior Member HondaSUV Elder 'Curly Q Links''s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dammitjim View Post

    .....I'll still pull the Drive Shaft at some point to verify the u-joints aren't an issue, but it's no longer a pressing issue.
    You don't have to remove the propeller shaft just to check the U-joints. Just unbolt and inspect the rear one first, then do the front one, letting them hang down and swivel them up, down , and all around to see if they bind at all.

    If the u-joints bind, THEN you finish dropping the propeller shaft. Leaving the shaft on the garage floor guarantees you won't ream out your transfer case or rear differential while you decide what to do.

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    Good point. I still haven't picked up a star socket to check it out but will follow up in this thread when I do.

    I did get a free oil change in the mail and while it was in there had the shop give me a estimate on fixing the vibration. Their diagnosis is a passenger inner CV joint that has a cut boot and no grease. If there is a cut it's a small one because I've never noticed it in the several trips I've made under the car to check out the front end. There isn't any fresh grease under there either, so if the grease is gone it's probably been that way for a while.

    They gave me a quote of $245 to replace the halfshaft. Does that sound reasonable?

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