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Thread: Gen 2 CRV with no heat

  1. #11
    Senior Member HondaSUV Mentor chiph's Avatar
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    You said the inlet hose is warm and the outlet is cold when you have no heat. And then both are warm when you do have heat.

    I'm wondering if the valve is defective, or if the core is possibly blocked up.

    What coolant is/was in your system? Was it the genuine Honda mix?

    Chip H.

    Former owner of: 2012 Civic LX, 2006 Ridgeline RTL, 2000 Honda CRV EX

  2. #12
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    I'm betting on a thermostat.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carbuff2 View Post
    I'm betting on a thermostat.
    I'll take your $20 bet and double it betting on the air mix control motor binding. To check this get up under the left side or right side of the dash(i forgot which side) and look up on the sides of the blower casing while you switch from heat to cool. A motor sould spin and open the flap for the heat. I'm betting that it's binding.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by LuckyStiff View Post
    I'll take your $20 bet and double it betting on the air mix control motor binding.
    Hmmm, interesting wager. But I'll point out, no monetary quantity was originally specified.




    The air mix door servo on our vintage Acura have had problems with accurate response...try turning the heat on the V's temp control all the way to HOT and see if the heat is as toasty as it should be.

    Years ago another Forum member mentioned replacing several control panels too (he was a dealer tech).

  5. #15
    Junior Member HondaSUV junior in training
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    The cooling system was flushed by honda and filled with honda coolant. I can hear the servo motors working, but I haven't actually watched them. The thermostat is a new honda unit. I have been checking the heat w/ a temp probe and it will vary from 88-135 degrees F. at the dash vents.

  6. #16
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    I just checked all of the servos and they all are working fine as well as the valve under the hood. I have no clue what else to do!!! Does anyone know what the temp should be coming out of the vents when all the way to hot?

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by bharvey2 View Post
    I just checked all of the servos and they all are working fine as well as the valve under the hood. I have no clue what else to do!!! Does anyone know what the temp should be coming out of the vents when all the way to hot?
    I don't know what it should be, but I would suspect it would be just a tad cooler than the engine coolant.
    "Roads? Where we're going we don't need roads." -- Dr Emmett Brown, BTTF
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    2007 Gl Blue EX - 97K miles - Mats, Cargo Tray, Remote Start, Magellan 4040, Yakima Roof Rack, wheelskins (Blk)

  8. #18
    Senior Member HondaSUV Elder blueiedgod's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bharvey2 View Post
    I just checked all of the servos and they all are working fine as well as the valve under the hood. I have no clue what else to do!!! Does anyone know what the temp should be coming out of the vents when all the way to hot?
    The temperature will be dependant on the coolant temperature and the air being sucked into the heating system (recirc vs. fresh air).


    Set the HVAC to "feet" and the intake to "recirculate" wait for the temperature gauge to reach normal operating temperature (middle or slightly below the middle of the range). Put your hand at the "feel" vent and you should feel heat flowing.

    If there is no air flow, then your filter or the blower are not working.

  9. #19
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    I guess your heater core (AKA Heater Matrix) might be clogged or restricted...who knows what extent the dealer "flush" was?

    It might be appropriate to disconnect the heater hoses where they disappear into the firewall and run water/coolant through the heater specifically. Do it in both directions. This works on other auto makes.

  10. #20
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    I know that the heater core was back flushed with a garden hose... But it could still be partially restricted.. i think it's just beyond fixing. The dealer wants $1000 to replace it

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