Ball joint separated from the knuckle. Note that the control arm bolts are still in so that there is something to shore up the arm while beating away at the "pickle fork" instead of doing nasty things to your wheel well interior.
Again, this is a Northern vehicle, undercoat and rust are the norm up here. Road salt is to blame.
The old and the new. Note: the new arm (after market) does have a retaining clip on the ball joint, so replacement is possible assuming one can find a match. The shank size is not the same as the lower joint, so no luck there.
Tools for the install. Socket sizes are the same.
Tools needed to seat the new ball joint shank. The petroleum jelly helps a lot in getting stuff seated properly. Something I learned from working on aircraft.
Coat the knuckle hole and the ball joint shank. I used the old nut to seat the joint in case I made a boo boo and round off the nut. Who cares if the old nut gets trashed, it going in the trash anyway and can be removed easily enough in any case with Vise-Grips.
Ball joint seated.
Make sure the bushings are well lubed to prevent squeaking, in this case I used white lithium grease.
EDIT: If you can get a hold of silicone grease, even better. I obtained a tube from my local dealer and it has lasted a long time and through several suspension repair/replacement jobs.
Make sure all the hardware is installed loosely until everything is in, otherwise you can create all kinds of extra work for yourself trying to get everything to fit (with the exception of the ball joint shaft). The reason I say this is that I forgot this rule and torqued the control arm bolts before installing the ball joint. The control arm was quite stiff then and very hard to move. I had to loosen the bolts back up to get the ball joint seated.
Okay, time to snug and torque the bolts (40 lbs-ft).
Ball joint nut torqued and pinned. Job complete.
Expect the complete job to take about 2 hours from set up to putting things away. Time will be less if you have air tools, which I do not.