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Thread: Crank Pulley Bolt Broke

  1. #1

    Default Crank Pulley Bolt Broke

    I was lucky that I was able to hear the crank pulley wobbling when I started it this morning, so I had it towed home today. I just finished taking off the crank pulley. Unfortunately, I was only able to take part of the pulley bolt off. About 1/3rd of the bolt is still in the crank. I plan on using a drill and an EZExtractor to remove it. I am hoping the threads in the crankshaft aren't damaged to the point that I cannot insert a new pulley bolt. There appears to be know damage to the crank pulley. However, the key was completely mangled. So I will at least need to purchase a new key and pulley bolt. These seem to be dealer items since I could not find them in any autowarehouse online stores. Does anyone have any suggestions here? What could have caused the pulley bolt to weaken and break? Do pulley bolts get weaker over time? Should I have replaced the pulley bolt along with the timing belt?

    Thanks.

  2. #2
    Moderator HondaSUV Elder sgtsandman's Avatar
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    They shouldn't weaken over time unless there was a problem with corrosion or someone tightened the $&^@ thing down way too much. Try drilling out the center of the bolt and using a screw removal tool to get it out. Try not to turn the crank while removing, other wise getting the crankshaft and camshafts to line up properly afterwards could be a pain.
    Mike: Sgtsandman's 'V
    2011 Ford Ranger XLT, 4X4 5 MT


    1999 Honda CR-V EX RT4WD 5 MT



  3. #3
    Senior Member HondaSUV Mentor wrenchingaround's Avatar
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    Maybe the belts were too tight, get some penetrating oil on the threads before you start. I'm feeling your pain .
    LOUIS
    2000 CR-V ex RT4WD Auto (166,000 kms)
    1965 MG Midget MKII
    (currently working on putting it back on the road for summer 2012 )

  4. #4
    Senior Member HondaSUV Elder 'Curly Q Links''s Avatar
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    It shouldn't be terribly hard to remove unless somebody put LockTite on it as well as torquing it to 500 pounds.

    You might as well remove the plastic cowl and pick up the correct extractor. I'd start with my cut-off tool on the dremmel and cut a slot screw head into the bolt and use a flat head screwdriver to back it out.

    Don't forget there's a rubber vibration damper built into the pulley assembly, so use the proper tool to hold it in place when re-tightening the new bolt.

    http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/cranktool/index.html

    Get the bolt from the dealer, since it's probably impossible (not worth your time) to take air tools to Pick-Yer-Part.

    Here: Read through this thread too http://www.hondasuv.com/members/showthread.php?t=11897

    Last edited by 'Curly Q Links'; 09-20-2007 at 08:11 AM. Reason: added link to old thread
    .
    '97 CR-V. . . . . . '00 CR-V SE (leather) . . . '98 Odyssey V-Tec ! !
    --------------------
    First, read the Owner's Manual, then SEARCH, your Internet is STILL WAY faster than mine.
    --------------------

  5. #5

    Default Broken pulley bolt

    The bolt was torqued extremely tight after the first timing belt change done at a AAA garage 20K ago. It took me 3 days and penetrating oil to take it off because I had the head re-machined because of a burnt valve. I torqued it to Honda specs, 130 ft*lbs and drove it 5000 miles before the pulley starting wobbling. I'm not sure how I will keep the crank still. The drill will be moving clockwise. I will probably have to perform the crankshaft to camshafts timing adjustment again. I mostly concerned about damaged done to crankshaft threads.

    Thanks.

    Quote Originally Posted by sgtsandman View Post


    They shouldn't weaken over time unless there was a problem with corrosion or someone tightened the $&^@ thing down way too much. Try drilling out the center of the bolt and using a screw removal tool to get it out. Try not to turn the crank while removing, other wise getting the crankshaft and camshafts to line up properly afterwards could be a pain.

  6. #6

    Default Oil required for pulley bolt?

    I read the warning from the link you provided below:

    A warning: You MUST torque the bolt back down correctly after you put it back. Failure to reinstall it correctly (including putting oil in the correct locations on the bolt) will result in the pulley eventually falling off while driving. Consult your shop manual for correct torque figure and procedure.

    Thanks for the info. I'll be sure to look at the repair manual about this.

    Quote Originally Posted by 'Curly Q Links' View Post
    It shouldn't be terribly hard to remove unless somebody put LockTite on it as well as torquing it to 500 pounds.

    You might as well remove the plastic cowl and pick up the correct extractor. I'd start with my cut-off tool on the dremmel and cut a slot screw head into the bolt and use a flat head screwdriver to back it out.

    Don't forget there's a rubber vibration damper built into the pulley assembly, so use the proper tool to hold it in place when re-tightening the new bolt.

    http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/cranktool/index.html

    Get the bolt from the dealer, since it's probably impossible (not worth your time) to take air tools to Pick-Yer-Part.

    Here: Read through this thread too http://www.hondasuv.com/members/showthread.php?t=11897


  7. #7

    Default Does oil need to be applied to crank pulley bolt before installation?

    I'm not aware of having to apply oil to the crank pulley bolt before installation. Can anybody confirm this?

    Thanks.

  8. #8

    Default quotes from dealer

    For Honda CRV 2000(2WD):

    Crank pulley: $193.90
    Crank pulley bolt: $20.02
    Key: $3.83

  9. #9

    Default Belt tension?

    Actually I thought my belts could be too loose. Should there be a concern in the tension of the belts between the alternator belt which pulls in the opposite direction of the power steering and water pump belts? I maintained a 1/4 inch deflection in the belts here. The repair manual doesn't express too much concern about the tension of the drive belts and the stress it could place on the pulley bolt. I would think the crank pulley would work to evenly distribute the stress the belts impart on the pulley bolt. Any suggestions here?

    Quote Originally Posted by wrenchingaround View Post
    Maybe the belts were too tight, get some penetrating oil on the threads before you start. I'm feeling your pain .

  10. #10
    Moderator HondaSUV Elder sgtsandman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by crvglenn View Post
    I'm not aware of having to apply oil to the crank pulley bolt before installation. Can anybody confirm this?

    Thanks.
    According to the Service manual, page 6-7; the only thing that gets lubricated is the the bolt is the only thing that gets lubricated; it doesn't specify what lubricant.

    The crankshaft pulley where the shaft goes through is to be clean, the timing belt pulley is to be clean and the same with the crankshaft and bolt hole.

    The back of the crankshaft pulley where it meets the timing belt guide plate and the timing belt guide plate are to be completely oil free.

    The bolt is to be torqued to 130 lbf-ft, 177 N-m, 18.0 kgf-m

    Note: Do not use an impact wrench when installing.
    Mike: Sgtsandman's 'V
    2011 Ford Ranger XLT, 4X4 5 MT


    1999 Honda CR-V EX RT4WD 5 MT



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