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ajchien
01-25-2010, 01:26 AM
I just did my Gen 2 driver's door actuator yesterday. I agree with sweaty (post #130). I started to take out the latch screws, but found out the actuator come out just fine without removing the latch or any of the connecting rods.

Here's my contribution to the DIY:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mJ5bp-cplzA

roadster
03-01-2010, 04:03 AM
Welcome me to the Act U Ater club?

This Am Hour 128K the Drivers side felt sick. Will be inspecting one day.

1st locating a price "AJCHIEN" exactly where did you order. your drivers 2003 side......

I would suggest a link to the exact part and number, not just a homepage.

My video will not be made as its WINTER. but I am sure this weekend I'll get out there and do a video forsure of inspecting.

I do not wantto jump to a conclusion, I believe its age that got to mine, and during the ride , it failed, not just waking up. b/c it got me in the car, but atthe gas station it said I am sick, all others will work, but do not overheat them they'll get ill as well.

will check in later. graphite is the key, and white lithium.

roadster
03-01-2010, 12:37 PM
5 minutes the door is off, that quick, the actuator is really small, and in a tight spot. sprayed the heck out of it with electronics spray.
felt clean. may be hanging on for its last few clicks.

I am able to get a lock with not touching , and a reopen as well, but if its continous, its time to replace.

Its so easy that a video may be the hardest part to show. or thosedam screws

the outside screws are the ones to take off correct that shows on the side of the door? they are tough. super tough will have to persuede them to come off. impact tool needed LOL.

ajchien
03-02-2010, 04:22 PM
Roadster,

On my 03 CRV:

Parts I usually try to order online, mostly from H&A. However, shipping for fluids is too expensive, might as well pick up from store. I needed to pick up some ATF-Z1 too.

I opted for the dealership for the actuator. Cost was $51.40 from Penske Honda Ontario (California).

3 small screws need to be removed by access from the inside of door panel. I did not need to remove any of the large door latch screws from outside. I started to remove the latch screws with impact driver, but found the actuator itself could be removed without doing so. Also search for youtube video - someone has actuator replacement for a Civic video. Near identical process to CR-V.

Civic link:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=heRnJWXixdk

roadster
03-06-2010, 07:36 AM
Well update:

2002 may be different

I had only seen one golden screw inside and that sucker did fall inside the actuator , oh boy, what fun.

I am unsure if I missed something, and not upset, rather go further, I packed up, and re closed.

I get open/close. and will just deal with it. till fully dead.

I wonder if the 2002 is definately different.

I had to take off the door opener latch, not hard to get off both ends.
I had to try the door handle was tough, left alone, and behind it is another, if I break it i am in trouble, why I stopped.

No video I feel I need to do important things before I show publicly, and you already shown us . and I tip my hat to you

yes handa-accessories.com Jim is a great guy........... west coast California.

well i got those impact screws off, with spitting on them they do not need a impact tool, just a Dewalt screw gun 12-14 vdc LOL

thanks for all the help. maybe in the summer time I may go about this. but hearing a station saying today 52 can hit to 70 plus and not telling the truth is frustrating LOL, enjoy

aubgray
03-06-2010, 02:05 PM
I just did my Gen 2 driver's door actuator yesterday. I agree with sweaty (post #130). I started to take out the latch screws, but found out the actuator come out just fine without removing the latch or any of the connecting rods.

Here's my contribution to the DIY:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mJ5bp-cplzA

thanks for posting this. very helpful. but the 2004 seems to be a different design. you need to pop a cover plate off to get to the door handle screws and the actuator is a different part # and looks like it goes in completely differently than yours. i'll tackle this when it gets warmer and try and post pics.

Racoon
03-06-2010, 02:50 PM
2002-2004 should be identical. There may be some minor differences with 2005-2006.
1997-2001 are definitely different.

:)

ajchien
03-06-2010, 02:51 PM
thanks for posting this. very helpful. but the 2004 seems to be a different design. you need to pop a cover plate off to get to the door handle screws and the actuator is a different part # and looks like it goes in completely differently than yours. i'll tackle this when it gets warmer and try and post pics.

yeah, sorry, i also had to pop off a cover to the door handle screws - for some reason, when uploading to youtube, it dropped the first few seconds of video (dont know why).

roadster
03-06-2010, 03:00 PM
well I will probably order my part, and will decide if a tutorial is necessary with mine lol.

aubgray
03-06-2010, 03:22 PM
2002-2004 should be identical. There may be some minor differences with 2005-2006.
1997-2001 are definitely different.

:)

part # i got was 72155 S5P A11. and it's black and doesn't look anything like what is in ajchien's video. i'm confused. :confused:

roadster
03-06-2010, 03:45 PM
Mine is on order.

sounds like a epidemic, a plague, has hit LOL

roadster
03-06-2010, 03:48 PM
http://i50.tinypic.com/iwlxys.png

roadster
03-06-2010, 03:52 PM
I may have ben trying to take off the lock assy. part 21 LMAO! while part 22 is the part we need, the actuator look at majestic honda under door handle outer........ it is the same.

aubgray
03-06-2010, 03:59 PM
http://i50.tinypic.com/iwlxys.png

that's what i have

aubgray
03-06-2010, 04:01 PM
yeah, sorry, i also had to pop off a cover to the door handle screws - for some reason, when uploading to youtube, it dropped the first few seconds of video (dont know why).

no worries. it's not the cover i'm worried about :mrgreen: thanks to you and roadster I may try and tackle this myself.

roadster
03-07-2010, 04:32 AM
If I do a video, the importance is to the car not the video. so today I will show how to take apart the door. If the dam weather is warm, if its cold It's no fun

The hardest part will be and I promise you, will be trying to carefully take that part out, the Actuator, first time tackles are hard.

I still need to figure out what the heck I am looking at LOl as my eyes are older. and light was needed for me.

now that I know the part maybe no clips are to be removed or even the outer scres, as the video was not truely clear, when a screw was out?

roadster
03-07-2010, 06:53 AM
http://i46.tinypic.com/35hpj5h.jpg

As i got the part out, I will say this 2002 is totally different from a 2003, and i show a uncenventional way of getting out a video, was filmed. I am now awaiting my part, and pray I can reverse to get in LMAO!

aubgray
03-07-2010, 07:55 AM
sounds like a epidemic, a plague, has hit LOL

oddyssey's also have similar problems with actuators failing frequently

roadster
03-07-2010, 08:09 AM
I purchased my car in may 2002, take note of the date april 2002 hidden behind my thumb LOL. shows how fast thecar was built, shipped, etc...

As my video is being proccessed, I am looking at the part, no way to open this, and repair, once I get the new one, then I will tamper with the old one.

I will try to take snaps but, it's to each their own, on how to tackle their v.

Amazing I left a part out LOL, andwill place in when part arrives.


I could have done three other video refrences here. but why bother. importance for me was to get the hardest part, the three screws off LMAO!

Yes common to wear, minewas on the brink since I purchased LOL.

Racoon
03-07-2010, 08:19 AM
I just moved the last series of Gen 2 lock actuator posts to their own thread, and made it a sticky.

:)

roadster
03-07-2010, 08:32 AM
Racc


http://i46.tinypic.com/35hpj5h.jpg


http://i47.tinypic.com/a0csk5.png

2002 is totally different then 2003 and removal.

each year or can we say each version of spring and fall edition v's differ each model and year..........

to take apart, you'll have to wait for the video. as you must remove the whole mechanisim, of part 6 takeclose note of part 22 and see that the image given is incorect, but just a diagram ofa 2002 crv at any online shop. (copyrighted).

To move the thread, because it's mixing, would mean renaming this to 2003 only, not GenII they differ as well.
the protective knob cover is black for 2003, while white, and no screws holding ........whatever we do our Uncoventional tear downs differently........

Racoon
03-07-2010, 09:06 AM
This information is for Japanese Built CR-Vs.

Okay, I went browsing through the hondapartscheap.com website for part numbers of the actuators...and found wierd stuff.

All of the image files used on their site for the front and rear door actuators are the same images, so we can't go by that.

Front
http://www.hondapartscheap.com/southbay/jsp/catimgs/14S9A6_B5310.gif

Rear
http://www.hondapartscheap.com/southbay/jsp/catimgs/14S9A6_B5410.gif

The part numbers themselves...well, see for yourself...

2002
Front
4 72115-S6A-J11 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2002
22 72155-S5P-A11 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2002
Rear
2 72115-S6A-J11 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2002
13 72155-S6A-J11 ACTUATOR ASSY., L. DOOR LOCK 2002

2003
Front
4 72115-S6A-J11 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2003
22 72155-S5P-A11 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2003
Rear
2 72115-S6A-J11 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2003
13 72155-S6A-J11 ACTUATOR ASSY., L. DOOR LOCK 2003

2004
Front
4 72115-S6A-J01 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2004
22 72155-S5P-A11 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2004
Rear
2 72115-S6A-J11 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2004
13 72155-S6A-J11 ACTUATOR ASSY., L. DOOR LOCK 2004

2005
Front
4 72115-S6A-J11 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2005
22 72155-S5P-A11 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2005
Rear
2 72115-S6A-J11 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2005
13 72155-S6A-J11 ACTUATOR ASSY., L. DOOR LOCK 2005

2006
Front
4 72115-S6A-J11 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2006
25 72155-S5P-A11 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2006
Rear
2 72115-S6A-J11 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2006
14 72155-S6A-J11 ACTUATOR ASSY., L. DOOR LOCK 2006

Racoon
03-07-2010, 09:12 AM
This information is for Japanese Built CR-Vs.

But look what happens when we sort the parts list by part number and year:

4 72115-S6A-J01 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2004

4 72115-S6A-J11 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2002
2 72115-S6A-J11 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2002
2 72115-S6A-J11 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2003
4 72115-S6A-J11 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2003
2 72115-S6A-J11 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2004
2 72115-S6A-J11 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2005
4 72115-S6A-J11 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2005
4 72115-S6A-J11 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2006
2 72115-S6A-J11 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2006

22 72155-S5P-A11 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2002
22 72155-S5P-A11 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2003
22 72155-S5P-A11 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2004
22 72155-S5P-A11 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2005
25 72155-S5P-A11 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2006

13 72155-S6A-J11 ACTUATOR ASSY., L. DOOR LOCK 2002
13 72155-S6A-J11 ACTUATOR ASSY., L. DOOR LOCK 2003
13 72155-S6A-J11 ACTUATOR ASSY., L. DOOR LOCK 2004
13 72155-S6A-J11 ACTUATOR ASSY., L. DOOR LOCK 2005
14 72155-S6A-J11 ACTUATOR ASSY., L. DOOR LOCK 2006

For reference, the first column is:

2s are rear doors
4s are front doors

13/14 are rear doors
22/25 are front doors

So one of the actuators for a 2004 CR-V is completely different than any other year.

:?

Racoon
03-07-2010, 09:15 AM
http://i47.tinypic.com/a0csk5.png

2002 is totally different then 2003

Where did the picture of the white one come from?
Is it a Honda part or an aftermarket part?

:?

roadster
03-07-2010, 09:24 AM
that is of the 2003 actual Gh honda part off of Ajchein's video.

the actual one I show is mine a 2002, and ordered and now by the pics you are showing are totally different numbers.

you must tear the whole part out, or force with care the mechanism out in working room.

All I am saying is each V differs. you may ant to just wait a few more hours till the video pops up. never a pro. just enjoying the day.

roadster
03-07-2010, 09:29 AM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qtJqEVLVkBc

here is a video of the Actual actuator, still awaing the rendering of the how to ten minute clip ten hours later..........

aubgray
03-07-2010, 09:58 AM
LOL. I have 04 and same part as roadster who has 02. ajchien has 03 and different part. maybe it depends on where our v's are built - GB or JPN. or left over parts bin at factory???

To make sure i picked mine up at dealer - they looked up part number. And it only cost me $34 - might be the only part in history that is cheaper in Canada than the US :mrgreen:

Racoon
03-07-2010, 10:08 AM
Okay, so the part numbers and diagrams I posted are for CR-Vs built in Japan...guess I need to do the same for the CR-Vs built in Great Britain.

I'll get them up in a little bit.

:(

roadster
03-07-2010, 10:14 AM
that may be the conflict or mishap

japan, are toatally diferent. vica-verca.

they do clearly tell you to make sure you specify what you're ordering.........

yeah my part was so dirt cheap to but after, addedcosts i am happy with the price I paid.

Racoon
03-07-2010, 10:32 AM
This information is for Great Britain Built CR-Vs.

The images for these are the same, except the 2006 which is numbered differently, but the image shows the same part.

Front
http://www.hondapartscheap.com/southbay/jsp/catimgs/14S9A0_B5311.gif

Rear
http://www.hondapartscheap.com/southbay/jsp/catimgs/14S9A0_B5411.gif

2002
Front
5 72115-S5A-003 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2002
23 72155-S5A-A01 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2002
Rear
1 72115-S5A-003 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2002
11 72155-S5A-003 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2002

2003
Front
5 72115-S5A-003 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2003
23 72155-S5A-A01 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2003
Rear
1 72115-S5A-003 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2003
11 72155-S5A-003 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2003

2004
Front
5 72115-S5A-003 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2004
23 72155-S5A-A01 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2004
Rear
1 72115-S5A-003 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2004
11 72155-S5A-003 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2004

2005
Front
5 72115-S5A-003 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2005
23 72155-S5A-A01 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2005
Rear
1 72115-S5A-003 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2005
11 72155-S5A-003 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2005

2006
Front
5 72115-S5A-003 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2006
24 72155-S5A-A01 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2006
Rear
1 72115-S5A-003 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2006
12 72155-S5A-003 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2006

Racoon
03-07-2010, 10:32 AM
This information is for Great Britain Built CR-Vs.

And sorted...

1 72115-S5A-003 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2002
5 72115-S5A-003 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2002
5 72115-S5A-003 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2003
1 72115-S5A-003 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2003
1 72115-S5A-003 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2004
5 72115-S5A-003 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2004
5 72115-S5A-003 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2005
1 72115-S5A-003 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2005
5 72115-S5A-003 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2006
1 72115-S5A-003 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2006

11 72155-S5A-003 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2002
11 72155-S5A-003 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2003
11 72155-S5A-003 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2004
11 72155-S5A-003 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2005
12 72155-S5A-003 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2006

23 72155-S5A-A01 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2002
23 72155-S5A-A01 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2003
23 72155-S5A-A01 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2004
23 72155-S5A-A01 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2005
24 72155-S5A-A01 ACTUATOR ASSY., DOOR LOCK 2006


5, 23, and 24 are Front
1, 11, and 12 are Rear

Racoon
03-07-2010, 10:35 AM
So yes, the actuators are different depending on where your CR-V was built...Japan or Great Britain.

The best way to make sure you get the correct part is to make sure you order parts for your VIN.

:?

roadster
03-07-2010, 10:45 AM
that is correct

roadster
03-07-2010, 12:10 PM
vidoe is made and dam program closes my conclusion out lol.

roadster
03-07-2010, 12:30 PM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RacWCx9WbTU

video promised

aubgray
03-07-2010, 01:28 PM
wow, what a pain in he you know where. thanks for posting the vid. 2 thumbs up

roadster
03-07-2010, 01:47 PM
I hope the other one comes in, and when I think I have it in correctly. and I prey itworks, otherwise its a freaken key and fob thnig for now one lol

ajchien
03-07-2010, 07:21 PM
Yes, I can confirm that my CRV (as first stickied post #1 with video) is a UK CRV with the VIN numbers beginning with SH---. I believe that the J---- are the Japan built CRVs. Perhaps thats why the parts counter guy wanted to confirm my VIN before giving me the part.

And thank you Racoon for posting diagrams and part numbers! Should be much better for future DIYers to know ahead of time which version they need to get!

BTW - I have a good friend that is a Honda mechanic, and he says that door actuators are not an uncommon failure in all more recent Hondas. I also find it somewhat interesting that I live in southern California and have a UK CRV while Roadster is in New York and has a Japan CRV. lol.

VitoVonAntwon
03-07-2010, 08:29 PM
Hi,

I had an interesting thing happen. The door lock went down slowly, and then stopped working. Also after it stopped working the rear passenger door behind the drive became totally dead. I have no idea why that happened. I took apart the door and with a volt meter confirmed that when applying to the 4 pin lower harness. When I click up on the door, I do get voltage, and when I click down, I get voltage on the other pin. So I'm not sure what went wrong. I suppose I have to order an actuator, but maybe the whole latch assembly as well? Can anyone let me know where you can get the part online.. Cheap, thanks. I'll have to check what country mine was made in.

Antonio

roadster
03-08-2010, 02:09 AM
Jhrld is japan. for me yes. I knew that. my Actuator was on the blink since Purchase, these parts were even blinking on 97 v I used to own day oneas well.

As I shown a motor is the culprit, ittakes many many turn uns/off.and it probably worn the magnet, bushings out a el cheaop motor.

yo cannot place full power constantly on that will burn it ,and smoke it, why you should not lean on the lock.

50% of the reason why yours, and others went bye bye fast. 2 sec, is more then enough time to pop it but I bet others kept popping and that is the cause.

roadster
03-09-2010, 12:34 PM
Well I ordered my part when I made that video, when, Sunday. and today iswhat day, Tuesday. and the part is in withing 5 minutes, and while videoing ten more due to video and takingtime lol. I kidd you not , It looked hard at first, but is a total sinch after you finsih it. all isworking the part is 9-9-23 or was that the year LOL

the part was online , not from Honda, and is GH honda 72155-s5p-a11

get it frm a Gh honda shop less the hassel , ofthe place I got it from LMAO!

video editing beginning ten hours late LOL.

roadster
03-09-2010, 05:12 PM
Video of the other half. ofhte job:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KFLXZgyVXuE

roadster
03-10-2010, 11:00 AM
It's again a pleasure to not worry bout the actuator. close thedoor, all works, and on to better things. no headaches is the way we likethings, and that My V paid off in the long run. 100K maintenance free if asked. minimal repaires.

aubgray
03-14-2010, 11:54 AM
Big thanks to roadster and ajchien. Changed my drivers actuator today with very little trouble. Took it slow and job done in 90 minutes. Wanted to make sure I took everything in and understood how everything worked.

Would have been sooner but one little hiccup - the little "L" shaped lever that goes inside the gold cover plate needs to go in exactly right. Mine wasn't at first and the locks would keep locking right after being unlocked - couldn't keep them in unlocked position.

Fixed that and works fine. I would recommend testing with door panel off just in case you have to go back and fix things like me!

This was good practice - while I was testing the locks I could hear some of the other door actuators being "slow". :x But will cross that bridge when I come to it.

roadster
03-14-2010, 01:35 PM
Congrad's, glad out videos helped. After i don this , I thought the gold plate did not have to be removed lol, but after re-watching it did. so

I still have to take my door apart to place back the protector, but I may just keep it off for personal reasons. if I ever get into a jam.

so a lot can be said about the videos

Side door cladding

How to get to speaker

how to fix a track
etc, etc

wa4qfy
03-22-2010, 06:10 PM
Hey Roadster,

I went by the dealer today to confirm that the part numbers for the 2002 (Gb ver)
were correct as posted by Racoon, and to figure out which was right and left.
But when he was printing out the prices so I could compare, the left rear driver side actuator
was twice the price.... Did you replace yours also, or did you find the same price delta?

roadster
03-23-2010, 02:07 AM
I only needed to do the driver. cost was under 50.00

the first one........A11 there is a difference 01 vs 11 mine is Japan 90%

jhrld.....

you're missing the rear hatch glass?

wa4qfy
03-23-2010, 06:35 AM
I only needed to do the driver. cost was under 50.00

the first one........A11 there is a difference 01 vs 11 mine is Japan 90%

jhrld.....

you're missing the rear hatch glass?

Thanks, For me at least right now, the rear hatch is working just fine.. go figure, all four doors failed, but not the rear door...

roadster
03-23-2010, 06:59 AM
SOrry to hear, but if all fourwent at once , I suspect something else.

You can take out just one, nad pop open the inside, pull the motor, and run a test, DO NOT RUN FOR OVER 2 SEC's the motor will work. possable, in my case was the Square knob that inserts in to the mechanism was not aligned.

I would check to see if everything is tight..

Watch our vids to get to the device and be careful not to snap.

I have had one glitch since the new one. and am observing it.

As well my Alarm. go figure. things do break.best place may be online at 35.00 at a Gh dealer, I got mine at a online aftermarket place andwould not recommend due to price being of equeal value, was hoping itwas less, while the shipment was within a days time. I was satasfied.

geekparts.com

ajchien
03-24-2010, 12:22 AM
SOrry to hear, but if all fourwent at once , I suspect something else.




Yes, I too find all four going bad at once somewhat disturbing. When my driver's front actuator went out - that practically disabled all four doors - since it's the driver's side that must open first (one click of key fob) before the others open (2 clicks of key fob).

aubgray
03-24-2010, 05:05 AM
Yes, I too find all four going bad at once somewhat disturbing. When my driver's front actuator went out - that practically disabled all four doors - since it's the driver's side that must open first (one click of key fob) before the others open (2 clicks of key fob).

plus the drivers actuator gets the most use so maybe the motor burns out faster.

roadster
03-24-2010, 05:54 AM
What I am noticing with the new one. not hearing All four locking. WHen I do leave I hear the rear hatch lock on arming and LOUD which is normal.

WHen in the car. it is pritty quiet and only and Only the driver I hear, when I am the only one in. othertimes I am sure I heard all four when I lock the door

I still need to replace in the part or parts I left out, not a big issue lol.

wa4qfy
03-24-2010, 01:53 PM
In many years of trying to be shade tree mechanic working on cars, you are the Tops! Your keenness to the small details is wonderful. I know this is going help lots of people including myself.

I need to be like you and be a guru for my Murano repairs, but alas, the older I get the more I am willing to pay someone. (Until it hurts the billfold).

Thanks again!

roadster
03-24-2010, 04:53 PM
do not forget to give ajchein His share as well.

I hear ya. i am getting older and wiser but yet to give up. I knowwhen to say hey.........

now go gt me that Slurpie.

glensh
05-12-2010, 08:39 PM
Thanks for the videos Roadster, they are a big help.

I just took my 2004 CRV door apart and it looks identical to your 2002 actuator. The CRV is the Canadian model, so I'm not sure if that is different from the american 2004 models.

My biggest problem so far is getting the 3 door latch screws out. They are very tight and I don't have the proper screw driver. I really want to avoid stripping them because that would be a nightmare to get them out then.

roadster
05-13-2010, 03:15 AM
Thanks for the videos Roadster, they are a big help.

I just took my 2004 CR-V door apart and it looks identical to your 2002 actuator. The CR-V is the Canadian model, so I'm not sure if that is different from the American 2004 models.

My biggest problem so far is getting the 3 door latch screws out. They are very tight and I don't have the proper screw driver. I really want to avoid stripping them because that would be a nightmare to get them out then.

I used, a Dewalt yellow cordless, borrowed from a friend , 14 plus volt drill. it taken it of with ease. if you can borrow one, if it means going to a local auto shop or parts even a gas station.

You purchase gas, from your local place and they got a repair shop they should do it for free, because you are a customer gas or not.

explain to them what you want to do, and if you cannot do the work you will be happy to keep them in mind for that favor. it's an idea.

otherwise a purchase of a impact driver. $20 Harbor Freight.

that movie Gran Torino where Clint Eastwood had all his tolls lol.

Racoon
05-13-2010, 05:00 AM
An impact screwdriver is what you need.
I have one I bought at Sears, although roadster's suggestion of Harbor Freight is also good if you have one near you.

:)

http://www.toolnet.co.za/images/47641.jpg

sgtsandman
05-13-2010, 05:49 AM
Harbor Freight is great for a lot of tools you don't find at Lowes, Sears, or the local hardware store! :)

roadster
05-13-2010, 03:20 PM
Harbour freight if not by you they as well are on ebay. a impact tool is not totally required, like I said a dewalt 14 plus vdc did the trick.

aubgray
05-13-2010, 03:27 PM
Thanks for the videos Roadster, they are a big help.

I just took my 2004 CRV door apart and it looks identical to your 2002 actuator. The CRV is the Canadian model, so I'm not sure if that is different from the american 2004 models.

My biggest problem so far is getting the 3 door latch screws out. They are very tight and I don't have the proper screw driver. I really want to avoid stripping them because that would be a nightmare to get them out then.

IF actuator is same as roadster then you have Japan CRV, just like my 04 (I'm in TO)

I got my 3 big door lock screws out with just a big screwdriver. nothing special - no impact or anything. you won't strip if you have a big enough bit (that's what she said :mrgreen: )

ajchien
06-26-2010, 09:05 PM
Darn. A few months after replacing my drivers front actuator, my passenger front actuator is now intermittently giving the same symptoms.

roadster
06-27-2010, 04:42 AM
Well there are reasonswhy these things stop working, and its nott he Actuator actually, it is something else. andwhen you find that issue out you'll besuprized.

reason why isay that. it is a continued problem.

ajchien
07-09-2010, 03:56 PM
Replaced the passenger front actuator, and all is fine again. Only differences from by drivers to passenger side is that there is only 1 electrical connector, not 2.

trx
07-21-2010, 06:55 PM
Roadster-

Do you have a pic of what the lock assembly supposed to look like before the gold plate is re-installed? I am having trouble figuring out where the latch goes along with the removable white tab that covers and helps spin as stated in your vid. When i put the door back together, the door lock doesn't rise all the way sometimes.

Thanks!

aubgray
07-21-2010, 07:09 PM
Roadster-

Do you have a pic of what the lock assembly supposed to look like before the gold plate is re-installed? I am having trouble figuring out where the latch goes along with the removable white tab that covers and helps spin as stated in your vid. When i put the door back together, the door lock doesn't rise all the way sometimes.

Thanks!

i had a similar problem. IIRC it was the gold plate that wasn't on right. once i fixed that it worked fine.

trx
07-21-2010, 07:33 PM
Aubgray-

So what am i missing here...any pic or drawing?

roadster
07-22-2010, 03:03 AM
When I dismanteled my actuator, I taken my time, and reviewed the situation 3 times, My old pc crashed, and no more vid or pics, sorry, till I get a power supply I may be able to retrieve some.

the gold plate by memory was snapped on I tend to forget. when I removed mine it sprung off. andfigured out that the peices needed to be seated correctly.

Are you sure you hav the correct actuator?

Again it is a easy operation, I would rate it 2 out of 5. complications leaving everything in the door, not removing would make this more difficult, whic is what i did.

aubgray
07-22-2010, 04:53 AM
Aubgray-

So what am i missing here...any pic or drawing?

i would look at roadsters video again. that's what i did. then i opened everything back up and it was pretty clear what i had done wrong.

trx
07-22-2010, 12:41 PM
Sorry for being a newbie. So when I watched roadster's video at the part where he was pointing at the white assembly itself (close-up shot) describing the slot for actuator, the middle hole, and tab on top ... where does the white removable tab and latch go? As soon as he zoomed out and put the white tab and latch, I wasn't able to see where they go exactly. Does the tab and latch go together? Once together does it go in the middle hole or the top protruding tab? Thanks.

roadster
07-22-2010, 04:05 PM
so what you are saying: the part you had taken off flew out in your hands?

roadster
07-22-2010, 04:13 PM
Give me the exact time in the video of the problem you are having?

alot of things can go on in a vid, and the most important part is takingt ime, if I took to much time I tend to have a hour long vid.

on the top of the device ( i call) a 90 degree white tab that locks the hook of the door, if you again give me that exact time in the vid I can capture, and probably explain.

trx
07-22-2010, 06:14 PM
Okay from your part 2 vid, at 1:04 you describe 3 areas, starting with the bottom slot for actuator then middle hole and top tab. What goes in that hole (middle position) and tab (top position)? At 1:41, you start this procedure of installing the white plastic part and metal hook latch. I need to know where those two pieces go? Thanks.

roadster
07-22-2010, 06:35 PM
I can only say that it sounds like when yours came apart, you did not see where those two peices came out from,correct?

pic 1
http://i25.tinypic.com/1z7z91.png

roadster
07-22-2010, 06:37 PM
The square knob I said and it is just a thing that turns it opens and closes the lock, goes in the lower hole. the gold goes in the upper hole.

the gold tab I cannot duplicate or get a better close up, that gold hole it goes in that section towards the top,, you must watch and rewatch.

it is something that is simple, and overlooking.

trx
07-22-2010, 07:02 PM
So the gold latch goes on the top 90 degree tab and nothing goes in the middle hole? Tried to attach drawing for better explanation but couldn't attach pic from my phone.

roadster
07-23-2010, 03:22 AM
in that pic, and the vide (mainly) I tell how to, not to, and you cannot place it wrong. It should fit into a slot, and the other gold part. it is a lever, and it will match up.

It had to pop out andwhy you're having trouble figuring where parts goe, nottrying to be rude offensive etc.

the square knob it has a four groove pattern it shoud also match up to the lower section.

I am going by memory, more then the video, and mine I taken apart three times to do a video, and cannot cover all angles for each spacific person. i get no pay, I go no further.

If one wants me to do this over I be happy to do it for a fee.

I do get thanks and I did get a Donation a few. and they know who they are Barbiquesauce99, and youtube member that thanked me via there if a Hondasuv...


You should or sounds like the part is not together by you, if you take some pics andcan post, it's really easy. for I, know how to grab a capture and go about some things. I just do not know what you are not getting at,

you have to supply a lil more info or a pic.

today is the digital world and net, everyone has a cam a cell etc, etc. not true

I take no offense, or try not to give offense if i sounded in any way , or missread . I do appologise.

As otehrs do not jump in they are reading and may shed the same light, they may not waste time in posting pics vids etc, rather just post.

pargeter
07-25-2010, 11:35 AM
Has anyone changed the tailgate actuator on gen. 2 CR-V? Mine has gone and Honda have quoted me 139 to replace and have quoted on part no. 72115-S5A-A01.

I've looked up on Lings Honda (http://www.hondaoriginalparts.com/honda_car_parts_selection_pfk.php?block_01=17S9A01&block_02=B__5520&block_03=18183) and that is saying its part no. PFKL775994 which does look like mine.

I've took the lining off the tailgate and the following pic is what I can see.

http://www.hondasuv.com/members/attachment.php?attachmentid=15597&stc=1&d=1280079656

The Honda is a 2002 Cr-V SE Sport Auto Gb model.

Anyone clarify on the part no. and the process for a tailgate replacement?

The text on mine is:
K04 DR LOCK

ACTUATOR
MITSUI R2

011219

ajchien
07-28-2010, 12:10 AM
That tailgate actuator looks a lot like the England made CRV actuator; IMHO in the front doors they seem to be easier and more simple to take out that the japan built ones. Look closer inside for small metallic screws and a green colored tab.


Has anyone changed the tailgate actuator on gen. 2 CR-V? Mine has gone and Honda have quoted me 139 to replace and have quoted on part no. 72115-S5A-A01.

I've looked up on Lings Honda (http://www.hondaoriginalparts.com/honda_car_parts_selection_pfk.php?block_01=17S9A01&block_02=B__5520&block_03=18183) and that is saying its part no. PFKL775994 which does look like mine.

I've took the lining off the tailgate and the following pic is what I can see.

http://www.hondasuv.com/members/attachment.php?attachmentid=15597&stc=1&d=1280079656

The Honda is a 2002 Cr-V SE Sport Auto Gb model.

Anyone clarify on the part no. and the process for a tailgate replacement?

The text on mine is:
K04 DR LOCK

ACTUATOR
MITSUI R2

011219

CR-DEE
09-16-2010, 09:25 PM
How common is this issue because my driver side lock is not working with my keyless entry remote. Any tips before I jump into this? I found the part on the Honda estore for like $40 free ship to dealer. Is there a better deal elsewhere?

TIA

P.S. Glad to see most of the regulars are still here.

CR-DEE
09-22-2010, 01:34 PM
I know roadster's video said to roll it down. While its easier to take the door apart with windows roll down. I'm afraid im going to break it as I am working to take off the actuator. What do you guys think?

'Curly Q Links'
09-22-2010, 02:57 PM
How common is this issue because my driver side lock is not working with my keyless entry remote. Any tips before I jump into this?

Does it fail to lock in all positions, or just when you're holding the door open ?

:idea:

CR-DEE
09-22-2010, 03:27 PM
Does it fail to lock in all positions, or just when you're holding the door open ?

:idea:

D/s lock no longer works with either keyfob or power lock switch. Will only work with key.

sgtsandman
09-22-2010, 09:28 PM
Sounds like a wire might be broken in the rubber tube between the door and the frame.

roadster
09-23-2010, 03:33 AM
D/s lock no longer works with either keyfob or power lock switch. Will only work with key.

if a key that is called manual locking no power needed, but does all other dors remotely lock, is so, then the wiring is fine, only if...

Only way to really test out is to pop the door covering off and disconnect the plug, one of them goes to the others to lock, and one locks the main.



remember no pressure will make the actuactor work, pressurewill not , its called STRESS

that is why the motor, copper fails the magnet is probably embedded so bad as well.

CR-DEE
09-23-2010, 04:38 PM
Let me be more specific it only works manually. Power locks on other 3 doors work. My question is should i leave the window up when im trying to replace the actuator? I had it down it and that was kinda risky. I could easily break the glass while trying to remove the actuator. any advice is appreciated.

thanks,

Racoon
09-24-2010, 02:13 AM
My question is should i leave the window up when im trying to replace the actuator?,

Window up, definitely.

:)

roadster
09-24-2010, 04:58 AM
Window up, definitely.

:)

There was a Video did he not watch????

roadster
09-24-2010, 05:01 AM
If the window does not block it and you forget. it be alright, but to be on the safe side it must be Up, so the track that you remove or loosen does not Drop the window and break.

Yes Raccoon there is a track that one must be careful about.

so yes be more spacific, it's in a video.

As for asking again using hte KEY only twists machanical parts. if electroically and notihing move I stand corrected in my posts.

caffeen neede. no pun intendeda

CR-DEE
09-26-2010, 10:08 PM
If the window does not block it and you forget. it be alright, but to be on the safe side it must be Up, so the track that you remove or loosen does not Drop the window and break.

Yes Raccoon there is a track that one must be careful about.

so yes be more spacific, it's in a video.

As for asking again using hte KEY only twists machanical parts. if electroically and notihing move I stand corrected in my posts.

caffeen neede. no pun intendeda

Took me 3 hours but I did it! thanks Roadster. I ran into a couple of difficulties. 1) I broke the old actuator tab and I had to drill it out. 2) It took me at least 15 mins to figure out how to move the track back. It would be helpful if somebody would've said you had to slide the track down first before you can pull it out. But overall I'm thrilled that it was a successful install.

roadster
09-27-2010, 03:38 AM
when I made that video it may have already did that. but hey my video is a unconventional way, and you are always welcomed, glad it given assistance.

devi
02-06-2011, 04:04 PM
Thanks to you guys and ROADSTER's awesome youtube videos, saved myself a bunch of money changing a driver side door lock actuator in my 2002 CRV (japan)(cost me $43 part #72155-S5P-A11)...down loaded your youtube video onto my I-touch. As my 8 year old daughter watched the video we changed out the device together...

roadster
02-07-2011, 05:15 AM
WOW!. awesome. thanks. that mean a lot , right there.

haveaCRV03
07-09-2012, 05:57 AM
Thanks. I've replaced yet another door lock actuator using your forum and videos. I replaced the front driver side door actuator about 2 years ago and just finished replacing the rear. The setup is a little different from the front door, but the videos and procedures are still spot on! It took about 3 hours and I ran into some difficulties, but it's done. Thanks again.

ajchien
07-10-2012, 11:05 PM
Has anyone changed the tailgate actuator on gen. 2 CR-V? Mine has gone and Honda have quoted me 139 to replace and have quoted on part no. 72115-S5A-A01.

I've looked up on Lings Honda (http://www.hondaoriginalparts.com/honda_car_parts_selection_pfk.php?block_01=17S9A01&block_02=B__5520&block_03=18183) and that is saying its part no. PFKL775994 which does look like mine.

I've took the lining off the tailgate and the following pic is what I can see.

http://www.hondasuv.com/members/attachment.php?attachmentid=15597&stc=1&d=1280079656

The Honda is a 2002 Cr-V SE Sport Auto Gb model.

Anyone clarify on the part no. and the process for a tailgate replacement?

The text on mine is:
K04 DR LOCK

ACTUATOR
MITSUI R2

011219

Ok, 2 years too late, but here's a vid of my tailgate actuator being changed. This is an England built 2003.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V0ZnqTXkkro&feature=youtube_gdata_player

norvic
10-23-2012, 04:43 PM
driver and pasenger doors lock and can unlock with the key, can lock with the remote but can not unlock with the remote. don't know which actuator is not working properly. how would i know which actuator don't work?

mandyfig
05-27-2013, 11:28 AM
My 00 V is over due for a door lock actuator change. Last one was @ 78K Driver side. Just bought an OEM replacement for $111 (ouch steep) and plan on doing this again. As it has been 5 years I am unsure of what I did, I am trying to refresh my memory.

I will have to go through this thread inch by inch. and BTW, just did the plugs, oil and cabin filter plus rotation, the car is pushing 147K.

ajchien
06-10-2013, 09:41 AM
Yikes!

So over the last few years Ive had to replace my drivers front, passenger front, and rear hatch door actuators... They're all been $35-$45 in parts for dealership OEM.

Now my driver's side REAR door actuator is going bad... and the part ...

72155-S5A-003

Is $105 (pretax) from a dealership and $86 (cost plus shipping, pretax) from hondapartsnow.

Anyone know of a cheaper price/aftermarket substitute?

Thanks

Racoon
06-10-2013, 10:52 AM
$45 from the Honda eStore (I've never dealt with them):

http://estore.honda.com/honda/parts/view-honda-parts-catalog-detail.asp?m=2007-fit-5-base-5mt&sn=&b=B++5410&dl=


$67 + $10 shipping from hondapartscheap.com, which has been pretty reliable for me:

http://www.hondapartscheap.com/?p=catalog&mode=search&search_in=all&search_str=72155-S5A-003

ajchien
06-10-2013, 11:50 AM
$45 from the Honda eStore (I've never dealt with them):

http://estore.honda.com/honda/parts/view-honda-parts-catalog-detail.asp?m=2007-fit-5-base-5mt&sn=&b=B++5410&dl=


$67 + $10 shipping from hondapartscheap.com, which has been pretty reliable for me:

http://www.hondapartscheap.com/?p=catalog&mode=search&search_in=all&search_str=72155-S5A-003

Thanks, it may be hondapartscheap. The estore price is for the passenger rear door, it's drivers rear door is $76. Wonder why the driver's rear one is more expensive?

Racoon
06-10-2013, 01:08 PM
I'm sorry, I thought I searched by your part number on both sites. :confused:

mandyfig
06-10-2013, 02:49 PM
I bought aftermarket Beck/Arnley was $110 (less 40%) = $66 at Advance Auto. Fleabay was about $70 shipped. And the part was side specific. Just waiting on the Princess to drop off the V so I can install it. The DR side has been noisy for about 2 years. Works but belts out this nasty noise of something grinding. Most recently, out of the blue, while driving, it tries to lock the door and belts out this horrible grinding noise...quite distracting. I was told it was doing it but did not believe the Princess until about 2 weeks ago I was driving it and it happened. Scared the crap out of me. The next day I had the actuator in my hand, LOL!

ajchien
06-10-2013, 10:59 PM
It's weird, the drivers front actuators average about $50, the drivers rear around $100, and passenger front and rear are about $45 for OEM.

What gets me is that a lot of the aftermarket ones sell the same part for front and back drivers side. What gives? Anyone think the drivers front will also work in the rear?

mandyfig
06-17-2013, 07:26 AM
Finally completed my 2nd DR actuator replacement. Went back to me finally not without going through the superb DIY posted here. Will post 1 pic to remind people of what they look like.

RickM
02-08-2014, 10:56 AM
Can you replace the actuator motor as opposed to the whole assembly? It's much cheaper and not much more work.

Racoon
02-08-2014, 11:30 AM
Yes, you could, but if it's the plastic pieces of the actuator that are failing, and not the motor, then you've wasted the time and effort involved in replacing just the motor.

JM2C

roadster
02-08-2014, 05:47 PM
For all that trouble to get to the motor, replace the whole unit. How much is the unit, and how much is the motor?

ajchien
02-08-2014, 08:08 PM
I've replaced 4 actuators. Never thought about replacing just to motor. Please post a YouTube video if you do it.

Where do you get a source for the motor?

Racoon
02-09-2014, 05:20 AM
Where do you get a source for the motor?

I checked a couple of parts sites, and the motor is listed with it's own part number.

:)

RickM
02-09-2014, 10:17 AM
I posted the info on the Gen 1 actuator (sticky) thread:

http://www.hondasuv.com/members/showthread.php?t=23231&page=27

FWIW, I believe the Gen 2 CRV uses the long shaft motor. If you're not sure what you have it's just easier to get the long shaft version and clip to the appropriate length.

RickM
02-09-2014, 10:34 AM
Yes, you could, but if it's the plastic pieces of the actuator that are failing, and not the motor, then you've wasted the time and effort involved in replacing just the motor.

JM2C

This is true. I removed my actuator and determined the mechanism was intact before ordering. I left the door panel off for the few days it took for delivery. I ordered two motors so now I have one ready to use should another actuator fail.

nirvana_1959
07-19-2014, 08:00 PM
Just finished replacing front driver side actuator for CR-V 2003 Japanese. The actuator is same as Roadster's 2002. Bought Dorman for $25. Everything went fine. Follow shop manual instructions. The whole assembly comes out. Then remove the metal face plate to separate the actuator from rest of the assembly. If anyone wants instructions let me know.

tsair
10-18-2014, 12:38 PM
I haven't seen any info on the rear passenger lock actuator, but I just finished mine. For my '04 Japanese made EX, it was part # 72115-S6A-J11. They wanted $65 at the local dealer, talked them down to $56.

Procedure seems similar, remove the inner door panel, peel back the moisture barrier. Disconnect the 2 rods, disconnect the wiring plug.

Unscrew the 3 bolts holding on the whole assembly from the outside of the door - it was right and I used an impact driver. Then the trickiest part for me was figuring out how to disconnect the gold rod at the top of the assembly connecting it to the exterior door handle. Flick off the clasp using a flathead. And then the trick is to slip a 1/2" wide flathead screwdriver between the rod and the white plastic holder from the rod side and then twist the screwdriver to lever the two apart using the blade of the screwdriver. Super easy this way, any other way seemed impossible.

Once you get the whole thing out, remove the single black screw holding the gold plate on, and then carefully pry the gold plate off. The metal bends easily and make sure you note how all the pieces fit together.

Then slip small small flatheads into the two black tabs holding the black actuator to the white assembly and it should slide apart.

Assembly is reverse of disassembly. :-)

06whtcrv
10-18-2014, 10:49 PM
just checked the prices for the 06 EX -
http://www.hondapartsunlimited.com/auto-parts/2006/honda/cr-v/ex-4wd-trim/5-speed-manual-engine/body-air-conditioning-cat/rear-door-locks-outer-handle-1-scat (http://www.hondapartsunlimited.com/auto-parts/2006/honda/cr-v/ex-4wd-trim/5-speed-manual-engine/body-air-conditioning-cat/rear-door-locks-outer-handle-1-scat)

passenger side rear part # 72115-S6A-J11 - $39.58.
driver's side (left) REAR door actuator part ...72155-S6A-J11 -- $22.45

My driver side passenger is getting a quite loud lately so may be a candidate for replacement soon.

Just for reference - Passenger front part # is same as the rear. Front Driver side part # is 72155-S5P-A11 ($43.98).

backyardpine
11-26-2014, 09:19 AM
I haven't seen any info on the rear passenger lock actuator, but I just finished mine. For my '04 Japanese made EX, it was part # 72115-S6A-J11. They wanted $65 at the local dealer, talked them down to $56.



Well, just found yesterday that the passenger rear power door lock on my 03 LX quit working (i.e., flipping the switch on the driver's door panel, it doesn't respond).

Could this be the actuator or something else? I'll take the panel apart to have a look.
Any tips for diagnosing?

TIA

Pinwu

Racoon
11-26-2014, 01:26 PM
When you take the panel off, try to lock and unlock the door using the switch on the driver's door.

Watch what happens.
Is the motor doing nothing?
Or is the motor trying to move the mechanism, but the mechanism isn't locking/unlocking correctly?

If it tries to move then replace the motor and the mechanism.
If the motor doesn't do anything look at the wires that go from the door into the body and see if they are damaged.

JM2C